Hi Kirk,
I'd be interested to know how you reinforced the grid. The yard that repaired 
my 27 after the PO tried to rip the keel off did a shoddy job that I spent a 
lot of time on. The grid crosses the bilge box in two places And is in the 
shape of a flanged C channel with the flat part up serving as a place to screw 
the floor down to. 
The yard sliced off one of the sides of the channel in two spots over the bilge 
producing a weakened structure which I have not fixed yet. 5 years of hard 
racing and large lake swells has not resulted on any issues yet but it's 
something I'd like to fix anyway. 

Brent Driedger
C&C 27 mkV
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-06-24, at 9:14 PM, kirk sneddon <[email protected]> wrote:

> Bob,
>  
> I bought my 29 Mk II in the fall of 2006. I suspected at the time that it may 
> had been grounded. The surveyor inspected it on the hard and said no. It 
> looked from the outside like a few cracks in the gelcoat. Ha!  In retrospect 
> I should have trusted my instincts.
>  
> Typically grounding damage will be more severe at the back end of the keel 
> where it meets the hull as there is a buckling/compression loads maximize at 
> this location. The narrow aft section of the stub keel on the 29 makes it 
> susceptible.
>  
> I had “gel coat cracks” at the front and back of the stub keel
>  
> I ended up grinding out the front and back end of my keel, which was done in 
> stages. The front was re-laminated out from the inner pan. We did this after 
> year 1. The aft end was also ground from inside and outside. There was some 
> very shabby repair work back there. While we were at it the entire keel box 
> and grid were reinforced. We did this last fall.  The front and back of my 
> keel are now Pearson Triton thickness and I have a bone dry bilge. We learned 
> more about the laminate about the stub keel/keel box of the 29 than I ever 
> wanted to know.
>  
> I have seen two other 29’s with clearance around the ½ keel bolt that you 
> describe. Mine had the clearance, but I attributed that to the fact the 
> original repair done in the yard in NH was not well executed.  
>  
> The advice from others on the site is sound. You would be best doing a short 
> haul and inspecting from the outside. The damage could propagate, in best 
> case adding to the cost of a future repair and potentially, putting you in a 
> situation that could worsen quickly at a time not of your choosing.
>  
> Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures, but you can call me to discuss the 
> configuration of the stub keel and bolts as the painful memories are forever 
> seared into my mind.
>  
> My cell is 516-669-2385
>  
> Sorry to hear about your experience. The upside is that with modern materials 
> ( epoxy and biaxial cloths), it can be made better than new. No indictment of 
> the fine work done at the C&C factories intended.
>  
> Kirk Sneddon
> C&C 29 Mk II – Flying Cloud
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts
>  
> I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.
> Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts 
> / mast step.
> The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is 
> currently under re-construction and dredging.
> Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the 
> middle of the channel at 5.5 knots.
> The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe 
> and it threw the entire crew off our feet.
> Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel 
> bolts.
> There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate” 
> inside the hull.
> Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at 
> the rear edge of the keel
> Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or 
> sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt.
> You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt 
> without felling any sealant at all.
> This seems very strange....I would expect some kind of sealant to be present 
> around the bolt?
> Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap 
> around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall?
> If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.
>  
>  
> Best regards,
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
> C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
> Pickering, ON
> (416) 919-2297
> [email protected]
>  
> ~~~~ __/) ~~~~
>  
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