I was thinking about this issue today and remembered something that might be relevant. When I was checking the panel, I was surprised to find that I had continuity between the two poles of the starter switch. When I disconnected the wires from the switch, the poles worked appropriately: no continuity until I pressed the start button. That sounds to me like I somehow had a complete circuit between the two sides of the starter wires, which does not sound right. It still should not have power with the battery selector off, so I don't see how that is connected to the arcing. As to the bilge pump- it is a float switch. As to other powered stuff- I will have to check on other things like stereo as I have not turned many things on yet to see if there are any that are direct connection to the battery other than the bilge pump. I noticed there are two sets of red cables coming off the battery, so I will have to trace where they go. I am sure that is going to be fun! Dave
On Jul 13, 2013, at 12:22 PM, "Jake Brodersen" <[email protected]> wrote: > Dave, > > The output wire from your alternator should go through the battery switch on > the way to the battery, as well should the main starter wire. There > shouldn’t be anything consuming power that is grounded to the engine with the > switch off. I would think that the bilge pump and radio are grounded to a > bus bar somewhere and not to your engine. > > Jake > > Jake Brodersen > C&C 35 Mk-III > Midnight Mistress > Hampton VA > > <image001.jpg> > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of David > Knecht > Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 11:34 PM > To: CnC CnC discussion list > Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal > > I wanted to report back to the list on what is hopefully the resolution of my > engine starting problems. To recap, I was having intermittent problems where > pressing the start switch led to nothing until last week when I could not get > it to turn over at all. Following various list suggestions, I started with > the engine panel and found that the start switch seemed to be working fine > and the contacts looked clean. I looked at the starter and solenoid and it > was so hard to get to the contacts that I passed on that possibility for the > time being. I then had a discussion with the mechanic at the broker where I > bought the boat and he said that in his experience 9/10 times the problem was > the engine ground connection. So I went back to the boat and took that apart > and cleaned the cable ends. When I tried the starter again, the engine > turned over immediately and started up. So I think the problem is solved. > It was a PITA job as usual with engines, since the placement of the ground > connection forced me to rest sideways with my head supporting my upper body > while my hips and legs rested on the rear mattress. I am beginning the think > that if I have a next boat, engine access will become my primary concern over > sailing characteristics. > One unresolved issue I would like advice on. When I took the ground wires > (3) off the engine I got a significant spark as they were pulled away from > the block. The same thing happened when I tried to reconnect them. I > resorted to disconnecting the batteries until I had the ground back in place. > This was with the battery switch off, so nothing should have been powered > except the emergency bilge pump. The mechanic seemed unconcerned when I > reported back to him, but I wonder if anyone has an idea what the presence of > this apparently live circuit means. > Thanks for all the help from the list resolving this issue. Dave > > On Jul 6, 2013, at 8:20 PM, Chuck S <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hi Dave, > Don't lose faith. You bought a great boat, and Universal made a great engine > for it. > First, the starter is bolted to the engine and both are grounded to the > battery negative. The starter motor is looking for the red positive to run. > > The starter has two big terminals (power) and two smaller terminals > (solenoid) on it. The starter button completes a control circuit to power > the solenoid, which closes larger contacts that power the starter. When the > starter gets power, the little motor spins and throws a shaft toward the > flywheel and it's gear meshes with the flywheel and turns it, turning over > the engine. > > When the thing don't start, you can short the terminals with a big > screwdriver to make it go. There will be a small spark when you do this, so > be sure no oil spills are close and no combustibles like propane are present. > When you short the small terminals, you are bypassing the starter button. > When you short the two big terminals, you are bypassing the solenoid > contacts. If either trick works, it indicates rebuilding the starter. If it > doesn't turn over the engine after trying both tricks, you need a rebuilt or > new starter. An auto starter guy will cost less than a marine guy. So I > recommend marking and removing the four wires and two bolts and taking it to > a starter shop. > > A single Auto Jumper cable can also be used to bypass suspected problems. > Just use logic. Look for Diesel Maintenance book by Nigel Calder or Don > Casey. > Mechanics use a trick: take a jumper attach the alligator clip it to the > battery's positive terminal and touch the other end to the big terminal on > the starter. > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Atlantic City, NJ > > > > David Knecht > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <image002.png> > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax)
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