Rick,
I used 5:1 in the example. That's the absolute MINIMUM I put out. I usually
use 7:1 scope and increase it to 10:1 for any breeze over 15 knots.
The Admiral and I actually use a simpler system than I described below.
Touche's rode is marked every 30 feet with the pull through markers and between
every 10 feet with permanent marker. If we anchor in 20 feet of water and want
5:1 scope, we let out the rode so the 100 foot marker is at the water, 7:1
would have 140 foot marker "on the water". That way, we don't have to add the
extra height from the water to the bow into the calculation.
As for chain length, look to the anchor manufacturer's recommendations. As a
racer, I have a Fortress FX16. Fortress recommends 6 feet of chain for every
25 feet of water depth one plans to anchor in. I only have 10 feet of chain on
my rode.
Extra chain can be a detriment with a Fortress anchor. In soft mud the chain
can drag the shank down resulting in the flukes pointing up. For that reason,
Fortress recommends setting the anchor at 2.5:1 scope. This shortened scope
will hold the chain and shank up so the flukes will point down and dig in. We
call this "first hook". In the above example for 20 foot depth, we would
attempt first hook with the 50 foot marker on the water. Once set, we would
let out to the 7:1 or desired scope, allow the boat to settle downwind or
downcurrent of the anchor them back down.
The Fortress is a great anchor in sand and stiff mud. I find it a bit
troublesome to set in heavy grass beds or shell beds. I've never been
successful getting it to hold in soft mud, particularly since I never put on
the mud palm attachments.
If I was a cruiser, I would have an appropriately sized Rocna backed up by a
Danforth Hi-Tensile lunch hook.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: Rick Brass <[email protected]>
>To: [email protected]
>Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 4:15 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Toronto to the Thousand Islands
>
>
>
>I was about to make the same point when I read Andy’s post.
>
>My practice is to drop the hook and let out rode to my target length as wind &
>current take the boat back. Then spend 5 or 10 minutes admiring the scenery
>and other boats while the wind and boat motion settle the anchor and chain
>into the bottom. I usually take bearings on a couple of prominent landmarks.
>Then I back down on the anchor, starting at about 1000 rpm to stretch out the
>rode (I have 65 feet of chain on each of my primary anchors, which takes some
>straightening out at times), then increase slowly to about 1600-2000 RPM to
>dug the anchor into the bottom. With this practice there have been very few
>times I’ve needed to haul and re-anchor, and those have been in really soupy
>mud for the most part.
>
>Dennis used 4:1 scope in his example of how much rode to let out. Most folks
>seem to use 3:1 to 5:1 if you have an all chain rode, and 7:1 to 10:1 if your
>rode is mostly rope. More is better in high winds and waves, but you need to
>be in the same ball park as the boats around you to avoid swinging into
>another boat if the wind changes.
>
>
>Rick Brass
>Washington, NC
>
>
>
>From:CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton
>Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 10:23 AM
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Toronto to the Thousand Islands
>
>The operative phrase being "after you've set the anchor." Don't back down hard
>until it's dug in a bit. I often see people drop their hook then rev the
>engine in reverse and back through the anchorage dragging the anchor along the
>bottom.
>Andy
>C&C 40
>Peregrine
>
>On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 10:13 AM, Dennis C. <[email protected]> wrote:
>Stevan,
>
>The most common mistake novice anchorers make is to not include the height of
>the bow in the calculation of scope. For instance if it is 3 feet from the
>water to your bow chock and you are anchoring in 20 feet of water, multiply
>your desired scope by 20 + 3. So if you want 5:1 scope, it would be 5 x 23 or
>115 feet at the bow chock.
>
>Once you've set the hook, back down HARD and watch an object in the water to
>see if you are dragging.
>
>If your GPS has an anchor alarm (most do), set it and relax.
>
>Dennis C.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
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