Thank you Antoine. I'll give it a shot. Really appreciate your recommendations.


Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

From: [email protected]
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 18:11:48 -0400
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Chainplate Knees

Aaron,After my two crossings, the chainplates were heavily leaking inside the 
boat. Dismantling the whole thing was part of the repair jobs I had to do on my 
return. Here is what you'll find if you decide to take it apart.
The knees are made of plywood fiberglassed to the hull with heavy layers of 
glass. Very solid. The chainplate goes through the deck and are bolted to the 
forward side of the knees. Water leakage from the deck plates can do three 
things, depending on where the leak is:- It will wet the deck surrounding the 
chainplate and change it into a sponge. It was the case on mine. No big deal. 
In the Fall, remove all the wood you can from the deck. Given it's balsa with 
vertical grain, water normally doesn't go too far. On mine, I found sound wood 
about an inch away. Allow it to dry over winter and fill it silica reinforced 
epoxy in the spring.- Water will follow the chain plate and leak at the bottom. 
That water normally does not infiltrate too much in the bolts. Remove the bolts 
and check for humidity inside. Another way to see if the plywood is still ok is 
to try to tighten the bolts a little. If you see the knees beginning to crunch, 
the plywood is not much supporting inside. If you cannot tighten much, the wood 
might still be very strong. Ensure you have strong washers or back plates.- The 
water find it's way through the top of the knees inside, where it cannot really 
escape, get the wood wet until it will eventually rot. Ouch. Replace. Normally 
the top of the knees should have been sealed, but it's hard to see since this 
was done before putting the deck on.
One thing to be careful with chainplate is that, until you dismantle them, you 
cannot really know what is happening at the junction between the deck and the 
chainplate. Stainless steel needs oxygen to remain stainless. There is not much 
oxygen at the deck/chainplate joint. Danger is corrosion going unnoticed. I was 
happy to see that mines where just perfect. A bit of polishing, passivation 
paste and it went back in, with two brand new cover plates. The old aluminum 
ones were to corroded.
Have fun.
Antoine (C&C Cousin, C&C 30-1, 1973)
Le 2013-07-29 à 10:30, Aaron Rouhi a écrit :Good Morning,What is the proper 
procedure the make sure Chainplate Knees are in good condition on my 30-1? They 
look and sound solid but on a very rainy day, I noticed that about a foot under 
the knee (behind the seat back) where the overlapping pieces of glass 
reinforcement ends, There is very small of water seeping out from underneath 
the glass. It's only noticeable if I use a brown tissue paper. I know that I 
have to reseal the chainplates but I have been putting it off to next season. 
Does anyone have any experience with the knees on a 30-1?

Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, 
MD_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
[email protected]                                     
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
[email protected]

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