This is what you want, I posed the exact same question to the list about an year ago:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/50845;jsessionid=FQksR7cCxNy14LM8jtQX5DcnjQvnM7HBcByYlRprGmQf2dBlQLw3!-1266547739!1014929580 On my 32 there were 4 bolts for the original head that didn't line up with the twist & lock that I was replacing it with. I think I reused one of the original posts and drilled three holes. There was indeed plywood, but only under one side IIRC. So I used the snaptoggles anyway. I think the suggestion to go ahead and drill the holes is sound. I would a really small bit to see what's in there. If you've got wood, go for some large thread screws, if not, go for the snaptoggles. Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 10:59 AM, Ron Kaye <[email protected]> wrote: > Bev and Bob, > > We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend. We originally got a > replacement Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to > fit "all years" models. > > It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection. Blah! > > So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West. > > Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") > broke off when taking off the old head. The new base did not fit over the > previous ones. > > So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for > threaded bolts. Not available. Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1. It > turned out to be simple deal: There is solid wood infer the fiberglass > there. The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers. You need four. We > used 5/16" x 2". West Marine. Just screw them through the glass into the > wood. > > I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the > surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been > better). Set the new base on and marked two holes in front. Take it off > and drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw. The fiberglass > layer must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it will > start cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes. > > Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle > and mark the rear ones. Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the > washers and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base. > > Worked like a charm for us newbies. > > Ron & Lisa > > On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote: > > Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock. What suggestions do > listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any > access under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been > suggested. Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers. > Is there anything under there I need to worry about damaging? Thanks. > > Bev Genader Bob Morgan > C&C 37 > > _______________________________________________ > > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > >
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