Check valves can and do stick shut sometimes.
Happened on a boat I was on once.
The owner was all set to install the backup pump, but poking the check valve 
solved the problem.
No idea what made it stick that one time.
Some somewhat adhesive "piece of crap" most likely I suppose.
In any case I would want it to be easily accessible if installed.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of Ken Heaton
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:42 AM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon


Our 37 XL has a check valve and a vented loop (belt and suspender approach) in 
the electric bilge pump discharge hose, like this:
http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-vented-loop-thru-hull.shtml
  This loop is in the lazarette, above the
thruhull in the stern.


Our manual pump does not have a vented loop but does have a one way valve in 
the strum box.  The boat came with a one way valve in
the strainer but when it started leaking we replaced it with a Whale #SB5865 
Top Entry Strainer, this type:
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10036|10159&product=17181806&code=766478586506


For the manual bilge pump to back siphon it would mean both the strainer valve 
and both the one way valves in the pump would have
to be leaking so perhaps it is time to service the manual pump or at least 
clean the hair, etc. out of the valves?


Ken H.



On 13 August 2013 00:03, Colin Kilgour <[email protected]> wrote:

  The only problem with a check valve is that it reduces the flow rate.

  If you plan to use a check valve - as many of us, including me, do -
  just adjust your pump size accordingly.

  Same goes for how big a column of water you're pushing (ie: hose diameter)

  Same goes for how high you're pushing that column. (ie: the higher the
  loop, the higher the column - And btw, you definitely DO want a loop)

  Same goes for the gauge of wire and length of wiring run to your pump.
  (Lower voltage = less flow)

  All of these impact flow rate. So your 2000GPH pump is actually
  pumping a lot less than that.... Again, not a huge problem - as long
  as you factor all these things into your de-watering strategy.

  Nigel Calder does a really good analysis of these factors in his
  mechanical and electrical book.

  Cheers
  Colin

  Btw - on Bojangles, the bilge pumps discharge well below waterline.
  I'm not super happy about that, but that's the way the boat was made
  and it'd be a major plumbing project to make it work a different way.
   Touch wood - this has always worked well for me.




  On 8/12/13, Josh Muckley <[email protected]> wrote:
  > I must be messing up cause I have a check valve.  Without it, all the water
  > that is pushed into the hose above the pump drains right back into the sump
  > once the pump turns off.  With an auto sensing pump it would pump all the
  > time.
  >
  > I did up size the discharge hose and check valve so that they would he
  > harder to clog.
  >
  > Josh
  >
  > --
  > When privacy matters.
  > http://www.secure-my-email.com
  > On Aug 12, 2013 9:15 PM, "Steven Winks" <[email protected]> wrote:
  >

  >> **

  >> Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
  >> anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
  >> The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and
  >> it
  >> filled up again once the switch was selected to off. I had the same
  >> result
  >> with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
  >> bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry,
  >> so
  >> the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The
  >> discharge on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but
  >> with
  >> any weight aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this?
  >> I
  >> understand check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.
  >>
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