Google "Amsteel eye splice". 

http://ropeandline.wordpress.com/2011/03/10/splicing-an-eye-into-spectra-amsteel-dyneema-12-plait-line/
 

You'll need to have a sharp pair of scissors to cut the line, a sharpie to mark 
the strands that get cut to taper each end and you need to calculate the fid 
length for your diameter line. You don't need a fid, just need to know length. 
(A fid length is 21 x diameter of the line. Then you need 3.5 fid lengths of 
bury.) It's easier to pull a line than push it. A coat hanger can be used to 
pull the line end through. 

You start with length of strop needed, then calculate bury required x 2, and 
eyes x 2 and add that all up. A two foot strop has room for only 12 " of bury 
I used 20 inches of bury for my 1/4" Amsteel lifelines. (18.4" required) I 
couldn't make a 2' strop out of anything bigger than probably 1/8" which would 
be rated for only 2500#. That may be enough? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Indigo" <[email protected]> 
To: [email protected] 
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 12:39:09 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Splicing Amsteel 




I have just been persuaded by West Marine to use Amsteel to make a short (2ft) 
strop to raise the upper swivel on my roller furler so that the entry/exit 
angle to the sheave is better to prevent a halyard wrap. In the store, they 
made it sound so easy to splice round a thimble.! 



Essentially they told me to pass the end of the line through the working 
section, and then back through one side and feed the end up inside the working 
section. Sounded easy! Anyone done this and got any tips? I can get the first 
stage done, but do not seem to be able to get the loose end inside the working 
section! 



Jonathan 

Indigo 35-3 Southport CT 






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