How about a stud finder?  Don't use one from a big box store.  Get a Franklin 
Prosensor. It's the ONLY stud finder that's 100% accurate. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 5, 2013, at 3:57 PM, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
> 
> That's about ⅛"?
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Nov 5, 2013, at 17:20, Lee Youngblood <leeyoungbl...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Peter,
>> 
>> As an electrician, we used to use a coat hanger wire to drill a test hole 
>> before drilling a "real one".  It might help you figure out where you are 
>> when locating your bit and get you started. . .
>> 
>> 2 cents, Lee
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> Rich,
>>> your explanation is great, it makes perfect sense.  So I got the drainplug, 
>>> and I went over there last weekend to look at the possible location.   I 
>>> don't have a lot of confidence that if I drill horizontally sideways, from 
>>> the lowest point in the bildge, (what I believe you describe as the 90 deg 
>>> angle), I will actually end up perpendicular to the bottom surface on the 
>>> outside.   I don't know how deep LF38 bildges are but on 38MkII, bildge is 
>>> very shallow.  If I end up higher then intended it could be very bad as the 
>>> bottom profile quickly turns from vertical to horizontal.  My intuition 
>>> suggests that I might need to drill at like 30 or 45 deg angle from 
>>> horizontal in order to end up perpendicular to the bottom surface on the 
>>> outside.   Maybe I just need to overcome my fear, but I wish there is a way 
>>> to find out what lowest point in the bildge projects to on the outer side 
>>> of the hull without actually drilling a pilot hole.   Maybe a pic of an 
>>> actual 38MkII , and not a landfall or ideally a cross-section drawing of 
>>> the keel-hull join showing hull thickness would indicate exactly how to 
>>> drill.
>>> 
>>> Petar Horvatic
>>> Sundowner
>>> 76 C&C 38MkII
>>> Newport, RI
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
>>> Knowles
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 4:06 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII
>>> 
>>> Peter:  Using a 90 deg. angle drill, I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole out from 
>>> the interior of the boat at the intersection of the bilge wall and floor at 
>>> the lowest point in the bilge.
>>> 
>>> I then used a Forstner bit the same diameter as the outside of the flange 
>>> of the drain casting to create a recessed hole in the hull exterior the 
>>> depth of the thickness of the flange plus a bit for caulking.
>>> 
>>> Once the outer hole was drilled, I drilled the hole for the neck of the 
>>> drain casting deep enough to allow the casting to sit flush with the hull. 
>>> I then used a 1/2" drill at an up angle into the bilge floor to create the 
>>> water passage from the bilge floor into the casting. Three 1 1/4" #10 flat 
>>> head self tapping screws and some 5200 hold and seal the casting in place. 
>>> I note that the flange straddles the hull/keel joint with the majority of 
>>> the fitting and two of the three screws in the hull. The third screw is in 
>>> the lead. No problems to date. That includes dropping and replacing the 
>>> keel during my recent post grounding repair.
>>> 
>>> There are nylon or bronze plugs with hex sockets available if the notion of 
>>> drag caused by the protruding square bolt head impeding perfect water flow 
>>> bothers the racing mentality at all. Personally, I can't tell the 
>>> difference:). One could also cut the bolt head off the threaded portion and 
>>> saw a kerf for a large screwdriver in the end of the threaded bit.
>>> 
>>> That little gadget is one of the best additions to the boat as it ensures 
>>> the bilge dries out completely every haul out and stays that way. I leave a 
>>> large note to myself to replace the plug in the spring:)
>>> 
>>> Rich Knowles
>>> Indigo
>>> 1981 LF 38
>>> Halifax. NS
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> 
>> 
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