Dennis, et al;
OK. I know I'm cheap and use a lot of less expensive alternatives to popular gear. For example, all the hardware on both my boats, except stuff I've not gotten around to replacing yet, is Garhauer not Harken. My anchor windlass is Anchorlift (from Scandanavia) instead of Lewmar or Maxwell. My refrigeration is a $450 icebox conversion kit from Norcold. And so on. Anyway, I have Bamar roller furling. It was recommended by my rigger, who had experience with them from working on the rigging of a European boat that was making its second or third circumnavigation. When we installed the furling, we replaced the rod headstay with dyform wire. Bamar uses a composite material like Torlon for the bearing tubes in each joint of the extrusion. Their instructions specifically state that the furler should not be installed on a rod headstay. According to them, dirt that may become imbedded in the bearings can cut circular grooves in the rod, which can become a stress riser and a source of failed headstay. A call to the importer resulted in the explanation that the surface of the wire reduces the chance that contamination will accumulate in the bearings. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dennis Cheuvront Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2014 10:55 PM To: CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for a used Harken MkIII Unit 1 Reefer or parts for a MKII Unit 1 If you're lucky, you can save the forestay. However, if there is any damage or questionable spots, chunk it and buy a new one. A new forestay should be under $200. It can be wire. I'm not convinced that rod is justified for the stays. Shrouds, yes.
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