I use NAPA Gold.  

 

Consider this; if your engine is running smooth with no imbalance or
excessive vibration and it is properly lubricated with oil of the
recommended grade that meets the appropriate API specs then the filter will
have little effect.  As long as the nominal size of wear particles produced
under any wear regime is less than the hydrodynamic oil film thickness
between moving parts (typically around 1 micron or slightly more) then they
will not cause damage to the moving parts because they will never touch the
moving parts with enough force to cause damage.  Normal wear particles are
typically less than 1 micron in size (major dimension).  So unless the
engine is experiencing abnormal wear which produces larger sized  wear
particles then the filter will collect only particles that cause no harm and
only if its nominal pore size is less than the size of those small wear
particles, that is, less than 1 micron.  When abnormal wear starts and large
wear particles get produced then these will get trapped on the filter
provided they are larger than the filter pore size but by that time the
engine will have already developed the abnormal wear problem and trapping
those particles on the filter might at best, slow the progress of that
abnormal wear, but not for long before something will fail.  Of course the
filter will help if large abrasive particles, like silica sand enter the
system from outside.  So the most important thing to do is the regular oil
change with a good quality oil of the proper grade and actually with
lubricating oil technology being what it is nowadays it is hard to find lube
oil that is not good quality. Even no name lube oils meet minimum API specs
nowadays.  50 operating hours in any one season is reasonable before oil
change for most small engines like our sailboat engines and because filters
are inexpensive it is a good practice to change the filter at the same time.
In most cases if you dissected the old filter and washed the debris off the
filter element and then examined that debris with a microscope you would
find very few particles at all if the engine is running normally, so the
filter would essentially be clean.  If you found many large particles
depending on composition, quantity, size and shape of those particles you
may have an engine about to experience some failure.  Filter debris analysis
is widely practiced nowadays and has been found to provide early evidence of
impending failure, and that early evidence can be critical where life
depends on keeping the engine going, like with helicopters or planes for
example. So if you really care about using a good filter then go the next
step and try to examine what that filter is removing from the oil; that will
be the best use of your filter and it will give you a good indication of the
internal condition of your engine.

 

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: April 4, 2014 1:45 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2gmf

 

I use Baldwin filters, I saw enough negative things about Fram to change my
mind. Baldwin has on-line filter selection, makes it easy.  




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 3 April 2014 19:54, Dennis C. <[email protected]> wrote:

Oh,no.  Please use Fram.  Help fund my pension check!  

To be honest, I never use them myself.  Lately I've been using a K&N filter
on the boat.

If you have an old filter, here's a cross reference site:
http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Apr 3, 2014 at 5:42 PM, Curtis <[email protected]> wrote:

Please don't use FRAM

 

On Thu, Apr 3, 2014 at 5:36 PM, bev parslow <[email protected]> wrote:

What is the equivalent fram filter for this?

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-- 
"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible."

T. E. Lawrence

. 





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