David — you’ve already gotten good replies from two sources, and both are correct. You need the 30A fuses on the solar install, and THEY NEED TO BE CLOSE TO THE BATTERY! ABYC says within seven inches of the connection point, unless you put a protective sheath over the wire from the battery; then you can go up to 36”. I’d suggest using the plastic ATO automotive-style fuses over the glass type. You can get waterproof ATO fuse holders online from several sources, but these are probably going to be your best bet:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/5065/Waterproof_In-Line_ATO_ATC_Fuse_holder And the fuse ahead of the power on the tank monitor, as stated before, is to protect the smaller 18ga wire on the system. Again, just put an inline ATO fuse behind the panel and be done with it. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Apr 10, 2014, at 7:41 AM, David Knecht <[email protected]> wrote: > I have two wiring projects to complete this weekend and I have questions > about fuses: > 1. The holding tank monitor I bought from Fred shows a fuse being wired > between the power source and the monitor gauge. Since the power is coming > from a breaker on the main panel, is there any reason to add this fuse as > well? > > 2. I am also wiring my new solar panel to a Sunsaver Duo controller and then > to the two batteries. Their diagram shows a 30A fuse wired between the Duo > and each battery. They did not supply these fuses with the kit. Is there a > rationale for those fuses? > Thanks- Dave > > David Knecht > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <pastedGraphic.tiff> > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected]
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