Steve, I replaced the tangs with K200 fittings on my mast a few weeks ago.
My rigger told me the old NavTang design was not as good as the newer mast
fittings

If you can simply replace the tangs it should not be too expensive. Each
fitting retails for about $110, plus about $40 per stemball. You would also
need to rehead the rod.

David Folsom
Rebel Maid
1981 C&C 36


On Fri, Apr 11, 2014 at 7:57 AM, Stevan Plavsa <[email protected]>wrote:

> I'm having my rig inspected in a couple of weeks. I'm concerned about the
> tangs and since I've been reading the emails about rod rigging in the past
> few days I was starting to get nervous about the rest of the rig. I hope
> it'll get a clean bill of health though I suspect the tangs will need
> attention. Is that an expensive thing to deal with?
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 11, 2014 at 9:43 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Before I bought my boat I read all the internet folklore about rod vs
>> wire and how rod fails without warning, needs to be re-headed every 10
>> years, etc, etc, etc..  Same story on the cored hulls below the water line
>> vs non-cored and all the attendant horror stories of rotten wood
>> incapsulated in a now worthless blister ridden hull, etc,etc..  And I was
>> getting a little dis-couraged about buying this awesome C&C boat I
>> currently own.
>>
>> Until I talked to experts that have worked cored hulls for 30 years  and
>> certified Navtec riggers with the same kind of experience.
>>
>> The fact is:  That after a complete strip to the gelcoat and analysis, my
>> 24 year old boat has not one single blister,  shows no signs of water
>> intrusion, and the boat is stiff as they come and lightweight like it's
>> supposed to be.
>>
>> Likewise, my 24 year old rod rigging is still of smaller diameter,
>> lighter, and stiffer than a comparable wire rigging. As per professional
>> Navtec certified rigger advice: It needs no re-heading or other extensive
>> maintenance.
>>
>> My Navtec certified rigger (and 20+ years rod rigging boat owner) gave me
>> an assessment of what I have, with actual ways of determining undue stress,
>> and told me we're just fine.   He raced his Navtec rod equipped  J boat
>> hard  for 15 + years in a salt water environment with nominal maintenance
>> and, being a rigger he took down his rig for a destructive test of the
>> heads and had the rods re-headed.  Final verdict:  (His words)  it was a
>> complete waste of time and money.  Keep in mind his rods were far from
>> pristine.  As mentioned the boat was ridden hard and put away wet for 15 +
>> racing season on the Georgia coast , the rods were showing a fair amount of
>> surface corrosion, and "Other signs of imminent doom" yet when the chips
>> were down and the rods were cut and analyzed, they were as strong as the
>> day they came out of the Navtec factory.
>>
>> His words: If you are going for a transatlantic crossing or
>> circumnavigation, then it's probably not a bad idea to err on the side of
>> caution but for the rest of us coastal cruisers and lake cruisers you just
>> don't put enough stress on those rods to really challenge them.
>>
>> Additional Anectodal evidence: My rigger who's been working the lake for
>> 30 + years has never seen a rod rigging failure on this lake.  Period.
>>
>> Simple test:  If  your turnbuckles are smooth and bind free  / the ball
>> pivots on the mast are smooth, that's pretty god evidence that the rods
>> have not been overly stressed.
>>
>>
>>  No offense to anyone but :  Before you decide to purchase / not purchase
>> a boat or spend serious money on a rig  the best thing to do is talk to a
>> professional rigger instead of hearsay on the internet..
>>
>>
>> -Francois
>> 1990 C&C 34+  "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, Georgia.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
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