Rob Gallagher's paraphrasing of Rob Ball's take on wet cores: To paraphrase Rob Ball (C&C designer) when he answered a question last summer about cored decks... '....Ok, so the core is wet, lots of boats have wet cores, now what? If there is no serious de-lamination who cares? Spend a fortune to fix a damp core or sail the boat for another decade, maybe longer?' I would, however, try to find the leak and fix it.
Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 8:49 PM, Dave Godwin <[email protected]> wrote: > Martin, > > I’m planning on taking on my boat this summer the same job as you have > undertaken. > > This is just a general question but I’m wondering about what I may expect > to find when I get started. My question is this: When you pull the deck > hardware and find areas that need to fixed that have wet core, is it a > matter of “large” areas of wet surrounding the hole or is it generally just > confined to local intrusion around the bolt holes? Meaning I guess, are you > going in a removing wet core within reach of the original hardware bolt > hole or are you cutting up the top layer of deck and going in and replacing > the core? > > And as follow-on, is the balsa rotten or is it “merely” wet”? As I said, I > say that because I’m wondering how much of the deck fiberglass I can expect > to cut out and replace. I’m prepared for the worst... > > Your observations would be welcome. > > Best, > Dave Godwin > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay > Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > > On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Martin DeYoung <[email protected]> > wrote: > > Jimmy, > > Thanks for the info based on your Bruckmann built Redline. I will discuss > the hatch conversion idea with Calypso’s co-owner but I expect we will keep > the teak dorade boxes. One of our goals is to keep the boat mostly looking > like it was when launched, just a little updated here and there. > > > have you decided on deck treatment?< > > I am planning to test Kiwi Grip (light gray) and EZPoxy 2 (color similar > to the original off white) on a cockpit hatch. I will be testing for how > the paint applies with brush or roll/tip and how the Kiwi Grip > looks/feels. If the light grey non-skid area looks out of place we will > stick with the existing all off white and use a custom color mix of Kiwi > Grip or similar non-skid coating. > > The original teak foredeck hatch was converted to a A&H 36”x36” back in > the early 80’s. The mid and head A&H hatches were original from 1970. All > three opening A&H hatches were sent to Hammerhead for refirb. I will > report back on how they look when the 90lbs of hatches and packaging arrive > back next week. > > By the time we are finished over 200 holes in the deck will have been > drilled out and refilled with epoxy. Some work days we have found more old > holes that were painted over than we filled. Must be each past owner moved > deck hardware around several times. Most of the old polyester based filler > (“bondo”) is failing and allows water to seep by. All deck hardware is > being removed to inspect for water intrusion. Most areas checked so far > have some amount of wet or damaged core. We are getting faster at > repairing and sealing the areas. High load areas will be rebuilt with > epoxy and glass so no further water damage will occur. > > The interior will be sanded or stripped (it is painted Herreshoff style, > white with teak trim) then repainted with white Brightside. If time allows > we will rebuilt the “stick built” sole supports. After decades of racing > and cruising, crew weight upon the floorboards causes enough creaking to be > quite annoying when someone does a middle of the night anchor check. > > Martin > Calypso > 1971 C&C 43 > Seattle > > <image001.png> > > *From:* CnC-List > [mailto:[email protected]<[email protected]> > ] *On Behalf Of *Jimmy Kelly > *Sent:* Monday, April 21, 2014 5:47 PM > *To:* [email protected] > *Subject:* Stus-List dorade box fastening > > have 1968 redline 41 by bruckmann mfg....removed dorades..,back in early > 80s....were fastened from below as well as from inside boxes...also > glassed....within box....were not designed to be removed......had to have > yard ..cut them off...instead of new dorades went with aluminium 14 by 8 > inch hatches...alternated which way opened....one of best changes > made....especially when in hot climates....30 yrs later..lewmar hatches > still in great shape....also less teak to maintain...with way yard > installed hatches ... length wise parallel to boat centerline....at least > 2 can be open depending on direction of wave spray...have really worked > well....also look great...not what had in mind when project started...later > replaced teak hatches with lewmar aluminium hatches..no more leaks when > teak wood dried out in hot summer sun.....good luck on your project....have > you decided on deck treatment? > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > >
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