All good stuff David.do you know if there is a requirement to have a manual bilge pump? Seems to me there should be in the evnt power is lost at a very inopportune time
_____ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List Sent: May 28, 2014 9:43 AM To: CNC CNC Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning I did much research about bilge pumps and the following are some of my conclusions and my build set-up; * Short hose runs much better than long runs * Pumps should not share discharge with anything else * Smooth walled hoses better than ribbed * Primary pump (smaller) discharge was moved from starboard side to port side (it dawned on me one day that launch passengers may not want a snoot-full of my bilge water) * Primary is on a bilge counter to determine pump cycles and a problem * My waterproof connections configuration is a bus bar as high in the bilge as possible sprayed with electronic waterproofing. Easier to inspect and has been working for years. * Secondary pump is large capacity set up with a bilge alarm and a switch 6" above primary. * Both discharges just below toerail mid-ships to minimize run and to eliminate back-siphoning * Primary is setup with a check valve to keep bilge as dry as possible, secondary is not. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) > To: drbod...@accesswave.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 08:21:59 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Mark, if you Y-connect it to the existing bilge pump discharge, don't you > worry about water going back into the bilge via the other hose? > > Now a stupid(?) question to the list: can you connect a bilge pump in series > (i.e. to the same discharge hose, one pump at the bilge to keep it dry, the > other (larger capacity) above the water line (next to the discha rge)). > > The question has some merits (for me). I have a 1000 GPM (??) pump located > in the lazarette pulling the water through a very long hose from the bilge. > I am thinking about installing a smaller pump in the bilge (like the one > suggested for Mark). My problem is that if I could avoid, I'd rather not run > 15' of a hose through the bellows of the boat (I am not looking forward to > snaking that hose behind and under all kinds of maze in the aft of the > boat). If I could just connect the new pump to the existing hose, I would be > set. > > I wonder what can go wrong with this kind of installation. > > thanks > > Marek (in Ottawa) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:35 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning > > > Thanks for all the advice. This is a great resource (thanks Stu). I've > read some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list > gives quick feedback on how and why. > > That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at. Plus a switch. > > I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc. > > Any thoughts on the discharge? > I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which > would keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave > that seacock open.. > > The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump > discharge (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that > would need 18'+ of hose. > > Mark > > - > > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santayana > > On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote: > > Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid > > electrical tape. I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than > > the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe. When > > the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been wet often. > > > > Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are > > still doing fine. I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one > > that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case. > > The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it > > because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out. One thing I do is > > take a garden hose to 3/4" adapter and flush the hose out with high > > pressure dock water. I'll also backflush the pump with the garden hose. > > > > Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad wiring. > > I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's no > > wonder the wire rots out. The worst, if you can believe it, was just > > wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape. No kidding. I > > found that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat was sinking at > > the dock. The guy came back to town, and when I told him that I'd saved > > his boat he didn't even say thanks. Power boaters. (It probably didn't > > help that I said whoever did the wiring ought to be taken out and shot.) > > > > Wal > > > > > > > > you CnC-List wrote: > >> I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > > > Email address: > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > > page at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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