Sebastien,
OK, here we go. I do "a bit" of finish work on decks and hulls. I've
found the secret to it is.....putty!!! Irregardless of the underlying
repair material ("structure"), putty will stick to it.
So, epoxy or vinylester or polyester resins, finish with putty. Leave or
grind down the epoxy or resin slightly below the original surface. Use a
straight edge to make sure the "structure" is low.
Next, fill the depression with putty. I use 3M Premium Putty. It cures
quickly and sands easily. The downside is, it will have tiny bubbles from
mixing in the hardener. It is very important, repeat, very important to
wash the area after sanding. The sanding dust will fill the tiny holes and
fool you into thinking the area is smooth. Wash it thoroughly with a hard
blast of water. ALWAYS use a sanding block!!!
Now fill the holes with two part glazing putty. Don't use the one part
stuff, it is too soft. You can use two part "professional" glazing putty
from an auto parts store no problem. You may have to wash, glaze and sand
more than once to eliminate all the tiny holes. 320 grit is fine enough
for the final sanding.
Next I would put on several coats of Pre-Kote (by brush would be fine),
sanding between coats with 320 or finer. That will ensure a smooth surface
for your Brightside.
Tape any hardware but don't tape the area. Spray the Brightside with a
"level hand". That is, keep your hand the same distance from the surface
moving it back and forth. Move your entire hand and arm. Don't swing it
back and forth in an arc from the elbow. Practice before you do the actual
spraying.
Start the movement well outside the target area, depress the spray button
when your hand enters the area. Release the button when it exits the
target area but keep your hand moving well past the target area. This will
prevent over applying paint at the edges of the area. Again, practice this
before you do the actual spraying.
As onerous as these steps may seem, they aren't as bad as living with a
botched repair.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Aug 18, 2014 at 5:42 PM, Sébastien Lemieux <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Thanks Dennis, I did not know about the Preval, it looks like a great
> approach to cover up repairs!
>
> If any of you have experience using Brightside over a thickened epoxy
> repair, am I right in planning for:
>
> One coat of Interlux Pre-kote primer
> Two coats of Interlux Brightside + Interlux flattening agent
> (with both thinned with Interlux special thinner 216)
>
> My main concern is with the pre-kote, in some brochures from Interlux they
> recommend using Interprotec 2000E over Epoxy. But the pre-kote brochure
> specifically mention epoxy as a substrate with only washing and sanding for
> prep.
>
> --
> Sébastien Lemieux
> Merlot X, C&C 30-2 1988
> Lake Champlain
>
> On Aug 17, 2014, at 14:49 , Dennis C. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Buy some paint (Interlux Brightside being the easiest to find and work
> with) and a Preval sprayer. Spray it on the area feathering it out on the
> edges. Do not tape it off. If you tape it or use a brush or roller you
> will leave a sharp edge which will be much more obvious than a feathered
> spray technique.
>
> Hint: when matching color, err to the dark side. A lighter match will
> look like a repair; a darker match will look like a dirty spot. :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 11:30 AM, Sébastien Lemieux <[email protected]
> > wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> I made a few repairs on my deck (changed rope clutches and filled some
>> holes left by a previous dodger) and I'm now left with several small
>> patches of sanded epoxy (I used thickened West epoxy and faired with 240
>> grit). What would be your recommendation for the cosmetic finish?
>>
>> I can't seem to find any information on painting small surfaces, is it
>> just a matter of buying a small quantity of paint and attempting as best as
>> possible to feather in with the surrounding? Is there a type of paint that
>> works better than other for this type of work? I am not too concerned
>> about color matching as the current paint on my deck is quite faded and
>> already show a few shades depending on sun exposure.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for you help,
>>
>> --
>> Sébastien Lemieux
>> Merlot X, C&C 30-2 1988
>> Lake Champlain
>>
>>
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>
>
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