Charlie A simple solution for a boat that already has screws?
OK. The J/27 we had has a very simple window setup. Like many other systems on these boats it is simple design and easy to work with. The windows are literally screwed in place and bedded with silicone. If I detected a leak I would remove the window, clean up the old silicon and reinstall. Was a 15 minute procedure. Why couldn’t his work on the frameless windows on the 80’s C&C models? Get new lexan/plexi or whatever and install with screws and silicon and never worry about the glue and clamps. I am serious with this question. It will not look as clean as the windows did when new because of the screws but it is a very simple solution and one that is easily fixed over time. My only concern would be in offshore situations where perhaps some strength is compromised Mike Persistence From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 11:41 AM To: [email protected]; [email protected]; [email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41 My windows were replaced by a local yard about 10-12 years ago before I was paying attention to this list. There appear to be screws involved whose heads I can see from the outside--probably screwed thru the windows to the fiberglass in the 'frame'--but I am not sure. Some of them are beginning to leak again and over the years I have seen some spitting of the fiberglass on the inside around the windows. I think this was a result of hull stresses while sailing. I have solved this with thickened epoxy and a pressure clamp to squeeze the splits together while the epoxy cured. My question for the list is if I decide the windows should be replaced again, should I bite the bullet and go with the Plexus/glue route or return to a glued and screwed solution, which the first repair seems to have been. Since the factory window installation began leaking early in the boats history (5-10 years), I am not sure the windows were installed with the best solution originally so returning to a similar fix seems at least counter-intuitive. Further, I am less interested in a 'pure, original solution' fix than a simple fix that works, which the original fix did for ~ 12 years. Since most of the repair cost is likely to be in the labor involved (not the cost of the windows), any solution will likely cost about the same. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> -----Original Message----- From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> To: Edd Schillay <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>; cnc-list <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Sent: Thu, Feb 12, 2015 9:22 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41 I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I consider to be less stylish but much more practical, so I'm basically just an interested onlooker to this discussion. But it seems to me a point made several years ago in a similar thread has been lost here. The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and helped to stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat. Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better part of 30 years on our old boats. And the comments about damaging gel oat when removing old portlights speaks to its tenacity as an adhesive. Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and sealers. (And also a PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using the primer.) I used Sika 295 on my rebuilt hatches, and it is great for car windshields (which are bedded in rubber so the window does not crack as the car body flexes) but it remains flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've gotten the impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to leaks in a few years, and polycarbonate portlights held in by screws tend to get cracks at the stress points. As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight solutions and I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not stylish aluminum frames. I just wanted to remind the group about why the frameless portlights were glued in by C&C in the first place. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Feb 8, 2015, at 20:38, Edd Schillay via CnC-List < [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last Spring. We used 3M fuselage tape - and although the prep was a lot of work, we are very pleased with the end result. All the best, Edd ------------------------------- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B C&C 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com<http://www.StarshipSailing.com> ------------------------------- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile ------------------------------- Sent via iPhone 6 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List < [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would definitely need the screws/bolts. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List < [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were attached by screws? What about bolts all the way through to some nice wood trim that would "clamp" the cabin top sides between the windows and interior trim? _______________________________________________ Email address: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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