Find a Beneteau with the in hull ports. Look carefully at the ports. The white ring around the perimeter of the port is paint.
No clue what paint they used. I have a copy of the Beneteau port installation procedure. They use a primer and one part adhesive. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Feb 15, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > This sounds well thought out but I have one thought on this. You say you > painted the inside of the plexiglass black, the substrate you are now > adhering to is paint and not the window itself. I'm thinking you may see > the window separate from the VHB tape and leave the paint behind on the > tape as the paint is not necessarily a structural bond. Hopefully the > paint is more firmly adhered to the glass than the tape will be. > Also be aware that the solvents in the paint may damage the plastic over > time and cause crazing around the edges. Just a thought. Hopefully I'm > overthinking this and wrong. > Good luck with the project, keep us posted. > > Brent > 27-5 > Lake Winnipeg > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Feb 15, 2015, at 11:06 AM, RPH via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some > might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my > 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the > project yesterday and the work is not yet complete. > > In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 > inch ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail > system and a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics > manufacturer, and they made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze > 2404). The edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I > remember correctly). They turned out to be very good reproductions of the > factory portlights. > > To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 > Tape 1/2" x 2.3mm, 4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white > over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone > Coating exhaust paint. > > Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, > starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could > chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate > adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel > Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible > scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. > In the end, I used several small putty knives which easily removed the > portlight. > > What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate > adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but > ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m > Premium Marine Filler. > > After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place > while my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the > protective paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along > the tracing and removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I > spray painted the inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that > the tape and Dow 795 will not be visible against the cabin top. > > I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see > that it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the > surface was carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing > compound should be left to cure overnight and I will try again today. In > any event, I have since read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum > adhesion, and that it will adhere more quickly when the temperature is > warmer. I'll bring a heat gun today to warm up the cabin top before > applying the portlight. > > Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the > inside of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I > will affix a few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the > cabin top window opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I > can then remove the protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and > then fit the portlight into place like a "key" into a keyhole. After the > tape is set, I will then fill the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. > > That's the plan, anyway. > > Robert H. > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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