Alex; If I recall from earlier posts, your boat is about a 35. So I presume you have a set of Garhauer EZ-G2 adjustable cars. This is the car that has a stand up ball bearing block that swivels as the sheet lead changes. And I can see where it could be called a "single" sheet lead system.
There is also an EZ G3 system. That has a non-swiveling block on the car that can lean outward at about 45 degrees off vertical to allow for changing sheet lead, and since the block is wider you could probably run two sheets through the block. Since this is the "big boat" configuration for higher sheet loads, I suspect the larger block is to accommodate larger diameter sheets, but it should also do for double sheets. Since you ask the question, I presume that you are planning to race the boat and will be doing a fair number of headsail changes. And the double sheet car would let you thread the sheets for the new sail before the hoist and extract the sheets from the old sail after the drop. If you have roller furling there is almost no need to change the sheets as you furl, you just adjust the car. I have a G2 system on my 38 (and a G1 on my 25). I now have roller furling and I quite like the flexibility of the block. When I'm furled down to 100 or 110%, the car goes forward to 3 or 4 feet behind the shrouds, and the block leans over and turns out to accommodate the sheet. When I'm reaching or running and have the sail let out, there is nothing for the sheet to rub against (OK, except the upper lifeline). I had concerns about the sheet rubbing on the outside face of the block in the G3 system. While I still had the headfoil in Imzadi and was racing, I can only recall one time I actually changed the headsail during a race. We went from the number 1 to the number 2 as conditions changed during a distance race. We hoisted the #2 inside the #1 and swapped the lazy sheets. Then we tacked and put the #1 inside the #2 and swapped the lazy sheets after the #1 was down. Probably not the optimum or quickest way to do it, but it worked for us. The tracks on both my boats run from a few inches ahead of the primary winches to a couple of feet behind the shrouds. You've not indicated how long your tracks are. My 38 used to have a #3 with a reef to make it a #4. Call it 100% to maybe 80%. When it is blowing hard enough to use the #4, I've not been beating hard into the wind and waves. Footed off a bit to accommodate the conditions, having the car 3 feet or so aft of the shrouds was not a problem. I don't believe I've ever pulled the car all the way forward on the track (except when cleaning the deck or reeving a new towline). Ditto on my 25. I flew the 65% storm jib one time, just to see how to rig it in case I ever needed to do it. I don't think I needed the car all the way forward even then - but I wasn't trying to sail at 32 degrees apparent, either. My boats are both rigged with the swivel cleat on the aft end of the genoa track. I'm sure that there is friction on the tow line where it passes the inboard side of the car, but it has never been a problem. Most of the time it isn't even noticeable because, whatever friction there is, when pulling the car forward you are overcoming several hundred pounds of load on the sheets and a bit of resistance due to friction is hardly significant. One of the things you will need to do to make the line adjustable cars work easily is to route your sheet through a turning block on the way to the winch. The objective is to keep the sheet almost level with the deck as it goes aft from the car. That way the load on the sheet between the car and the clew of the sail will tend to push the car aft when you ease the tow line. If you go from clew to car to winch, the load on the aft part of the line angling up to the winch will tend to force the car forward and it will be hard to get the car aft when you need foot of the sail to be really flat. If you are interested, I can send a couple of photos of my arrangement to you off the list. Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 6:32 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Garhauer Sheet Lead System Hi folks, Long time since I was on the list. Finally launched the boat after 7.5 years on the hard and got sailing a few times last summer and now I am wanting to install my Garhauer sheet lead system I bought a few years ago, and am a bit concerned about how useful it actually will be. Here are some concerns: 1) I bought what appears to be a single sheet lead, as opposed to twin which is what came with the boat way back when in 1974. I recall buying at the Garhauer booth at the Toronto Intl Boat show and telling him the size of boat and that is what I got. According to their online catalogue it looks like the -2. Anybody care to comment? Is there a twin sheet lead version available? 2) there is a separate swivel cleat which mounts onto a T-track, but my question is: If you can't put it onto the same genoa track, do you need to bolt a whole new section of track to your deck? I could place it between the coaming and the track but wanted to know what others were doing. On the same track would create too much friction. 3) A comment more than a question, but even when you haul it all together, it takes up about 15" of the forward end of the track which isn't that long to begin with, so has anyone found this to be an issue when wanting to use a smaller jib? Thanks, Alex Alex Giannelia a...@airsensing.com +1 (416) 203-9858 Office +1 (416) 529-0070 Mobile www.airsensing.com -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com Sent: March-09-15 3:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 110, Issue 25 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: marine stores in bangor maine (Josh Muckley) 2. Tool recommendation (Jean-Francois J Rivard) 3. Re: marine stores in bangor maine (Bill Bina - gmail) 4. Re: Tool recommendation (Marek Dziedzic) 5. Re: Tool recommendation (robert) 6. Re: marine stores in bangor maine (robert) 7. C&C34 Genoa Sheet Bracket help (Mark Meyer) 8. Re: Tool recommendation (Burt Stratton) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2015 14:02:35 -0400 From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>, Bill Bina <billbinal...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List marine stores in bangor maine Message-ID: <CA+zaCRAbe1auFWETGeJ=gfiDppLJdar5Egnc8bmzMhs=cy=+b...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" That's right Bill. I tried 66 in brackish water which Interlux explained would be "salty enough". It worked fine during the first season but during the first haul out it peeled off in sheets. Fortunately the yard that put it on was a certified retailer so the repair/replacement was fully covered. I seem to remember they used Micron CSC. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mar 9, 2015 1:47 PM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Note that Micron 66 is strictly for salt water only. If you spend > some time in brackish water, as well as salt water, you are better off > with Micron Extra. > > Bill Bina > > On 3/9/2015 1:29 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: > > Thanks Mike > > > > I will be travelling I95 South or #9 from Calais thru bangor then on > to State #2 West at Newport thru Skowhegan to Sugarloaf, Me. Has been > a long time since we skied there. Portland seems a few hours out of > our way and we were hoping to make a quick stop at a store to buy some paint. > > > > Bob Abbott of Azura has pretty much convinced me to use Micron 66 > which we cannot buy in Canada > > > > Mike > > > > > > *From:* Fair, Mike [mailto:mike.f...@mckesson.com > <mike.f...@mckesson.com>] > > *Sent:* Monday, March 09, 2015 2:22 PM > *To:* Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* RE: marine stores in bangor maine > > > > Google Hamilton Marine. They are in Portland and a couple other > locations Down East. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mike Fair > > 413.587.6535 > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt, Mike via > CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, March 09, 2015 12:49 PM > *To:* schiller; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Stus-List marine stores in bangor maine > > > > I will be driving through Bangor later this month and wish to pick up > some paint that I cannot source in Canada. Any suggestions of a > convenient place to get this? > > > > Regards > > > > Mike > > Persistence > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page > at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150309/6b de3250/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2015 14:08:11 -0400 From: Jean-Francois J Rivard <jfriv...@us.ibm.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Tool recommendation Message-ID: <of6c525148.d015aa5d-on85257e03.0062a39a-85257e03.0063a...@us.ibm.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi David, If it hasn't been mentioned for max torque with less chance of stripping make sure you go with a 12 point closed wrench instead of 6. Ratcheting closed wrenches are a pleasure to work with but for high torque the ratchet can possibly get damaged.. I'd go with a plain ol' forged one piece wrench. Depending on the angle, an offset wrench might help as well: http://www.amazon.com/Point-Offset-Metal-Wrench-Spanner/dp/B0087ZU6DQ as mentionned before the tighter the fit , the straighter the wrench, the less chance of stripping the bolt. Also, you might want to see if you can slip a piece of metal pipe of the the other end of the wrench (A "Cheater" pipe) to lengthen the lever / increase mechanical advantage, sometimes that makes an "Impossible" job easy. Finally, don't forget to coat the stud with anti seize compound when you re-assemble to make the job easier next time. Best of luck -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, GA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150309/25 2e3d22/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 09 Mar 2015 14:12:41 -0400 From: Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com> To: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>, C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List marine stores in bangor maine Message-ID: <54fde299.3090...@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" Up until this past summer, I was always in a slip a half mile up a river. I've always used Micron Extra, and even though I am now moored in salt water, I still seem to be getting equally good results. Because of the price differential, I did try the Petit (Ultima SR-40) equivalent, and after just one season of the two season paint job, I switched back to old reliable Micron Extra. Bill Bina On 3/9/2015 2:02 PM, Josh Muckley wrote: > > That's right Bill. I tried 66 in brackish water which Interlux > explained would be "salty enough". It worked fine during the first > season but during the first haul out it peeled off in sheets. > Fortunately the yard that put it on was a certified retailer so the > repair/replacement was fully covered. I seem to remember they used > Micron CSC. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Mar 9, 2015 1:47 PM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > > Note that Micron 66 is strictly for salt water only. If you spend > some time in brackish water, as well as salt water, you are better > off with Micron Extra. > > Bill Bina > > On 3/9/2015 1:29 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: >> >> Thanks Mike >> >> I will be travelling I95 South or #9 from Calais thru bangor then >> on to State #2 West at Newport thru Skowhegan to Sugarloaf, Me. >> Has been a long time since we skied there. Portland seems a few >> hours out of our way and we were hoping to make a quick stop at a >> store to buy some paint. >> >> Bob Abbott of Azura has pretty much convinced me to use Micron 66 >> which we cannot buy in Canada >> >> Mike >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150309/48 b452d4/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2015 14:43:59 -0400 From: "Marek Dziedzic" <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation Message-ID: <blu184-ds24090bf33111609796d465ce...@phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" This is from an almost 10-year old test, but it should be still true: A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best! Here's the summary of the test results: Penetrating oil .......... Average load None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 ? 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Marek From: robert via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 12:20 PM To: Steve Thomas ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation Steve: Advice, that from my experience in these situations, I would agree with. If the bolt won't turn, anything less than a perfect fit will begin the 'stripping process' which will ultimately make the job more difficult. David, I have tried this 'home made penetration concoction' with success......by volume, half and half of power steering fluid and acetone......and make sure if you try this, it gets on the parts you want unseized and not on other parts, like hoses, belts, etc. I used an 'eye dropper' which I found very controllable and exact.....almost no spillage. I loosen the seized bolts on my mixing elbow and exhaust flange with this concoction before I got into trouble with , maybe a broken bolt head. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-03-09 11:43 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote: I would NOT try to use an open end wrench of any kind to loosen a bolt that is really stuck. There is too high a probability that you will just round off the head and make your task even more difficult. Use some kind of closed wrench, either the box end of a combination wrench, or a socket, preferably a six point. From your description it sounds like a socket is out of the question, which is too bad. I would not try to use any kind of one size fits all or adjustable for breaking it loose either. I have never yet seen one that will reliably transmit torque as good as a solid lump of metal. Once the bolt is broke free there are many options. I like the box end wrenches that have the ratchet built in, in situations when a socket wrench cannot be used. They are almost as good as combination wrenches for tight fitting situations and the ratchet makes them a lot more convenient to use. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII ----- Original Message ----- From: David Knecht via CnC-List To: CnC CnC discussion list Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 10:12 Subject: Stus-List Tool recommendation I was at the boat yesterday and tried to take the heat exchanger off the engine (Universal M4-30) so I could refurbish the seals and make sure it is clean (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). One bolt came off easily but the one on the starboard side is a challenge. I cannot get a socket on it because something from the engine or transmission is partially blocking frontal access. I found my wrench selection on board is less than adequate and I need to upgrade. I tried with a short 1/2" open end wrench and was able to get it on, but could not budge the bolt. I left it sprayed with penetrant hoping that will loosen it. I looked at other wrench types to see what would be useful in this situation and came upon this ratcheting wrench I had not seen before: http://www.amazon.com/Alden-Wrench-56038-Ratching-Open-End/dp/B002VEC9XE/ref =sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1425909762&sr=1-1&keywords=alden+ratchet It looks like something useful to have on the boat as the clamping action should work on both metric and SAE, it is stainless and it ratchets. Has anyone tried something like this? The other type I am considering is the flex head ratcheting wrenches: http://www.amazon.com/Husky5-Pieces-SAE-Flex-Ratcheting-Wrench/dp/B00CBFVKT2 /ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1425910197&sr=1-4&keywords=ratcheting+flex+wren ches Dave Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150309/c3 2e8d14/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 09 Mar 2015 15:50:54 -0300 From: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> To: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com>, 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation Message-ID: <54fdeb8e.5000...@eastlink.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" Jim: You are correct, thank you..... and to David who I hope reads your correction .....it is 50:50 acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and not Power Steering Fluid (PSF). For the purposes of what we are talking about using this concoction, a 50:50 of either ATF or PWF will probably work..... differences of the two include, as I understand, heat tolerance and anti forming properties.....both are petroleum products. In addition to the boat experience, I used it once on a screw on my car and an home plumbing application with success. Maybe both would have come free without this concoction, but both came free with it, so it gained my confidence. I keep 2 oz. bottle with an eye dropper around..... if I could only remember where I put it. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-03-09 2:23 PM, Jim Watts wrote: > The usual formula I have heard of is 50:50 acetone and ATF. I have no > idea how the power steering fluid compares to ATF, however...so I > can't make any calls that way. > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > On 9 March 2015 at 09:20, robert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > > Steve: > > Advice, that from my experience in these situations, I would agree > with. If the bolt won't turn, anything less than a perfect fit > will begin the 'stripping process' which will ultimately make the > job more difficult. > > David, I have tried this 'home made penetration concoction' with > success......by volume, half and half of power steering fluid and > acetone......and make sure if you try this, it gets on the parts > you want unseized and not on other parts, like hoses, belts, > etc. I used an 'eye dropper' which I found very controllable > and exact.....almost no spillage. I loosen the seized bolts on my > mixing elbow and exhaust flange with this concoction before I got > into trouble with , maybe a broken bolt head. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 84 > Halifax, N.S. > > > On 2015-03-09 11:43 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote: >> I would NOT try to use an open end wrench of any kind to loosen a >> bolt that is really stuck. There is too high a probability that >> you will just round off the head and make your task even more >> difficult. Use some kind of closed wrench, either the box end of >> a combination wrench, or a socket, preferably a six point. From >> your description it sounds like a socket is out of the question, >> which is too bad. I would not try to use any kind of one size >> fits all or adjustable for breaking it loose either. I have never >> yet seen one that will reliably transmit torque as good as a >> solid lump of metal. >> Once the bolt is broke free there are many options. I like the >> box end wrenches that have the ratchet built in, in >> situations when a socket wrench cannot be used. They are almost >> as good as combination wrenches for tight fitting situations and >> the ratchet makes them a lot more convenient to use. >> Steve Thomas >> C&C27 MKIII >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >> *Sent:* Monday, March 09, 2015 10:12 >> *Subject:* Stus-List Tool recommendation >> >> I was at the boat yesterday and tried to take the heat >> exchanger off the engine (Universal M4-30) so I could >> refurbish the seals and make sure it is clean >> (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). One >> bolt came off easily but the one on the starboard side is a >> challenge. I cannot get a socket on it because something >> from the engine or transmission is partially blocking frontal >> access. I found my wrench selection on board is less than >> adequate and I need to upgrade. I tried with a short 1/2" >> open end wrench and was able to get it on, but could not >> budge the bolt. I left it sprayed with penetrant hoping that >> will loosen it. >> >> I looked at other wrench types to see what would be useful >> in this situation and came upon this ratcheting wrench I had >> not seen before: >> >> http://www.amazon.com/Alden-Wrench-56038-Ratching-Open-End/dp/B002VEC >> 9XE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1425909762&sr=1-1&keywords=alden+ratc >> het >> >> >> It looks like something useful to have on the boat as the >> clamping action should work on both metric and SAE, it is >> stainless and it ratchets. Has anyone tried something like >> this? >> >> The other type I am considering is the flex head ratcheting >> wrenches: >> >> http://www.amazon.com/Husky5-Pieces-SAE-Flex-Ratcheting-Wrench/dp/B00 >> CBFVKT2/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1425910197&sr=1-4&keywords=ratche >> ting+flex+wrenches >> >> Dave >> >> >> Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- >> go to the bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to > the bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150309/c2 8870b6/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 09 Mar 2015 16:14:28 -0300 From: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> To: Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List marine stores in bangor maine Message-ID: <54fdf114.6010...@eastlink.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" Bill: Trust me, Mike sails in salt water....not brackish water. Mike and I are on moorings in the North West Arm where we have lots of salt water passing by our hulls and we are close to open ocean. I have used Micron 66 for 3 seasons now after using Micron CSC for 12 years.....the 66 is a more effective paint where we keep our boats....it does not permit any growth....I would get a 'slime' with the CSC at fall haulout which was always cleaned with a pressure wash....with the 66, the bottom does not need the pressure wash.... an unnecessary expense both to have the pressure wash and to wash away good antifouling paint. I have enough 66 to do a light coat this season, then I will have to do something like Mike, ski Sugarloaf, to get my hands on another gallon. Or go back to CSC. Mike, do you know Scott MacLeod at our club....a big Beneteau called 'Easy Company'....Scott saw my boat at haulout and has now switched to 66 with great results. Happy skiing you lucky sailor! Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-03-09 2:47 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote > Note that Micron 66 is strictly for salt water only. If you spend some > time in brackish water, as well as salt water, you are better off with > Micron Extra. > > Bill Bina > > On 3/9/2015 1:29 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: >> >> Thanks Mike >> >> I will be travelling I95 South or #9 from Calais thru bangor then on >> to State #2 West at Newport thru Skowhegan to Sugarloaf, Me. Has >> been a long time since we skied there. Portland seems a few hours >> out of our way and we were hoping to make a quick stop at a store to >> buy some paint. >> >> Bob Abbott of Azura has pretty much convinced me to use Micron 66 >> which we cannot buy in Canada >> >> Mike >> >> *From:*Fair, Mike [mailto:mike.f...@mckesson.com] >> *Sent:* Monday, March 09, 2015 2:22 PM >> *To:* Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Subject:* RE: marine stores in bangor maine >> >> Google Hamilton Marine. They are in Portland and a couple other >> locations Down East. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Mike Fair >> >> 413.587.6535 >> >> *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of >> *Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Monday, March 09, 2015 12:49 PM >> *To:* schiller; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *Subject:* Stus-List marine stores in bangor maine >> >> I will be driving through Bangor later this month and wish to pick up >> some paint that I cannot source in Canada. Any suggestions of a >> convenient place to get this? >> >> Regards >> >> Mike >> >> Persistence >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150309/10 4e6b12/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2015 12:42:55 -0700 From: Mark Meyer <fastguy1...@yahoo.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List C&C34 Genoa Sheet Bracket help Message-ID: <1425930175.55886.yahoomailba...@web141403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi All, Got a 1979 C&C 34 which I'm updating. I have seen other 34's which use a external bracket and a turning block positioned behind the primary winch to turn the sheet. Mine uses a block clipped to the toerail aft of there and since I'm interested in flying my chute while racing this year, there needs to be a different solution for the Genoa. Does anyone know od a drawing for this bracket, or have an idea of where I can acquire a pair? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Mark Meyer 1979 C&C34 "Freedom" ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2015 15:52:55 -0400 From: "Burt Stratton" <bstrat...@falconnect.com> To: "'Jean-Francois J Rivard'" <jfriv...@us.ibm.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation Message-ID: <029001d05aa2$a33585a0$e9a090e0$@falconnect.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" All makes sense except for one thing. A 6-point wrench or socket is by far the best choice if you are afraid of rounding off the head of the bolt (or nut). The only reason for 12-point wrenches is convenience (twice as many places to land on the head of the bolt). Half of the points are not used at any given time. The surface that makes contact on a 6-point wrench is effectively 100%. In fact if you round it off with a 12-point wrench, go back at it with a 6-point. You might need to use some persuasion to get it over the rounded corners but if you get it on you will still have a lot of useful flat area left to get some torque on. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 2:08 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Tool recommendation Hi David, If it hasn't been mentioned for max torque with less chance of stripping make sure you go with a 12 point closed wrench instead of 6. Ratcheting closed wrenches are a pleasure to work with but for high torque the ratchet can possibly get damaged.. I'd go with a plain ol' forged one piece wrench. Depending on the angle, an offset wrench might help as well: <http://www.amazon.com/Point-Offset-Metal-Wrench-Spanner/dp/B0087ZU6DQ> http://www.amazon.com/Point-Offset-Metal-Wrench-Spanner/dp/B0087ZU6DQ as mentionned before the tighter the fit , the straighter the wrench, the less chance of stripping the bolt. Also, you might want to see if you can slip a piece of metal pipe of the the other end of the wrench (A "Cheater" pipe) to lengthen the lever / increase mechanical advantage, sometimes that makes an "Impossible" job easy. Finally, don't forget to coat the stud with anti seize compound when you re-assemble to make the job easier next time. Best of luck -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, GA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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