You're probably right Rob, so I am going to shave a bit off the toerail and fit a couple of chocks, 5/8" bridles and lots of chafe protection and use the existing cleat (which when I looked this afternoon was larger than I had recalled). The glass under the rail is too uneven to have a backing plate which rules out putting a cleat there. I'm having a mooring put down by a reputable company, 5500lb concrete block, 3/4" load rated bottom chain, 1" polysteel to a short chain through the buoy to a top ring. The thing should be fine for holding a 35' boat at least, likely way more in our harbour. Thanks for everyone's thoughts on this. Cheers, Paul.
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2015 19:08:46 -0300 From: [email protected] To: [email protected]; [email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring Paul: Forgive me in that I don't exactly know your boat....my old age seems to recall you saying it was a C&C 27......two (2) 1/2" lines as your bridle with chafe covering out through your fairleads is quite adequate. If you go with that, I'd be more concerned with what is the mooring attached to on the bottom. Do you know for sure? I thought I did with my boat.....there were supposed to be two (2) 45 gallon drums filed with concrete, and chained together 8 feet apart so that if the boat lifted one drum with the boat attached to only one, the chances of it lifting the second one 8 feet away should be remote.......an 8 foot wave, storm surge where my boat is located, not likely, but nevertheless, not impossible but surely not sustained. A September storm a few years back, my boat dragged the mooring approx. 300 feet.....no damage, other than some severe chaffe on the two 5/8" bridle(s) even with chaffe guards on the fairleads. Turned out I didn't have two 45 gallon drums of cement, just one, and my boat probably bounced that one during the wave surge highs the 300 feet from where it should have remained. So Paul, my boat dragged and/or bounced a 45 gallon drum filled with cement and never produced even a tiny crack in the gelcoat around the deck cleats; And remember, no matter where our boats are in a hurricane, they are always in God's hands....that's why we have insurance. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 -84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-03-14 6:37 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote: It's not that the cleat is badly fitted on the foredeck, I think it's just undersized for a long-term unattended mooring. At most it will accommodate a 1/2" or so line, which I think is too small. Fine if you are on the boat and attending to it, but that's not going to be the case. Given that I would have to cut the rail to fit chocks, and replace that cleat for something bigger, I think I'll just go with fabricating a mounting block over the rail and putting cleats straight onto that, through-bolted and backed of course. Less points for chafe to happen, and it leaves the central cleat free if needed as well. Or maybe a bow eye, but attaching the lines to that may prove troublesome, not sure I want a big shackle smacking into the bow. Cheers, Paul. Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2015 10:10:15 -0700 To: [email protected]; [email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring From: [email protected] Paul, you will be happy to know you can keep track of your boat when it's out there. http://bulletcam.ca/images/portfolio/axisq60.jpg The view changes every so often, but rotates through about six set angles. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 14 March 2015 at 09:10, jackbrennan via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: As someone whose C&C 25 went through 4 small and 1 large hurricanes on a mooring at Key Biscayne: You want to size mooring lines so there is some give, just like an anchor line. Bigger is not necessarily better. In a large storm, stagger maybe 5 lines of different length so that one takes over as another breaks. They will break in big storms. I never saw a mooring cleat pull out. Lines always went first. A main culprit was an unusually large wave that would pull the bow up and snap a perfectly good, protected line. Make the lines as long as they can be in a storm. I was on a helix mooring. The anchors always held, but a weak point was the line from the helix to the mooring. They need to be replaced every few years or after particularly bad storms like hurricanes. Duct tape makes good chafe guard in a fix. Jack Brennan Former C&C 25 Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO -------- Original message -------- From: Graham Collins via CnC-List Date:03/14/2015 11:06 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Paul Baker ,[email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring _______________________________________________ Email address: [email protected] To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: [email protected] To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: [email protected] To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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