Peter,I would like to purchase a set of c/t crimping pliers but I live in the
US and I do not see any mention of shipping on their C/T s web site. Any
idea's oot there?
Thanks Lee C+C 35-3 C/B LI NY
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List <[email protected]>
To: cnc-list <[email protected]>
Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2015 9:36 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive pair of
ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, Canadian Tire has
them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale price of $29.99 is good,
compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 – $100.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU
I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to the $30
no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... which has
worked flawlessly. Much, much better tool than those cheap flat steel
crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get a good
crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM
To: Jim Watts ; [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
It is missing the vial of weasel sweat. Otherwise good.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Here's my wiring diagram.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/AAAAAAAADBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List
<[email protected]> wrote:
Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the less
complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, especially
in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary switches or
electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to be problematic
much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin.
“Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities such as
turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and saving a few
steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth compromising the
reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better to my mind.
The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main panel
and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended.
Just a few thoughts…
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.
On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:
And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking
weatherproof here) .... one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the
other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck
fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up
one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it
from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel
to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot
and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example,
although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could
just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when
not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in
connection.
In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible ...
eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I plan
to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge
panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for both of those are
in the standard C&C panel.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM
To: [email protected] ;
Alex Giannelia
Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
Remember to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an appropriate
breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you were planning that
already.
Ed
On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List" <
[email protected]> wrote:
So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy
My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the companionway
stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 switches and
fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off switch.
The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been replaced by
a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric motor charger
and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house bank. On the
starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker which may have
been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF radios.
Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 instruments by
STANDARD HORIZON.
The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the
locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel
(already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.
So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be
switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch. The engine installer
installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for whatever.
Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the cabin
panel.
Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to the
lights, nav lights, pumps etc.
Get the picture? So what should I worry about?
Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario
[email protected]
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