Thanks I will.

Harald

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.
  Original Message
From: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 2:14 PM
To: [email protected]
Reply To: [email protected]
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 86


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  bottom paint stripping (Fred Hazzard)
   2. Re:  Vinyl letters - experiences? (Stu)
   3. Re:  CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 85 (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
   4.  Boom (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
   5. Re:  Painting Boat Name on Hull (Kevin Driscoll)
   6. Re:  boom (McNamee, Michael)
   7.  Dry Ice Blasting (robert)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 10:37:50 -0700
From: Fred Hazzard <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping
Message-ID:
        <can6migbocbmt8spteo4fheuqjyzb4cl7keachbpiv4mqz9z...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Bob,  how much was the cost for the dry ice blasting?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or
On Oct 22, 2015 8:18 AM, "robert via CnC-List" <[email protected]>
wrote:

> I had the bottom dry ice blasted.....took about 5 hours.....great job,
> little to know mess.....shop vaced the old paint from the ground in 20
> minutes.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi David,
>
> I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be
> good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. The
> guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're doing to
> avoid digging into the gelcoat)
>
> As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed to trap
> moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local knowledge /
> recommendations as different waters / climates dictate different
> approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse for osmosis.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
> > I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint
> > in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
> >
> > 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> > uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat
> and
> > little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> > experience with the two technologies?
> >
> > 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> > the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era
> C&C,
> > it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> > amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on multiple barrier
> > coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few
> coats?
> > Thanks- Dave
> >
> > Aries
> > 1990 C&C 34+
> > New London, CT
> Regards
> ------------------------------
>
> *Fran?ois Rivard*  4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
> Big Data Black Belt  Atlanta, 30327-3015 IBM Sales & Distribution,
> Software Sales  Usa Mobile: 770-639-0429
> e-mail: [email protected]
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Email address:[email protected]
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Email address:
> [email protected]
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 13:45:27 -0400
From: "Stu" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?
Message-ID: <CF5CE93EF6674168910FB4333409E124@StusNew>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I have been cutting vinyl decals for over 10 years and have a few suggestions:

a- there are various thicknesses of vinyl from 2 to 4 mm (maybe thicker)
b- quality vinyl will stick for years ? others will start to peel in a year
c- check the guarantee of color ? some companies will guarantee no fading for 
10 years
d- make sure you specify outdoor or marine vinyl ? indoor quality is crap
e- proper installation is a must ? there is a way and a way not to install

Single color (with shadowing) is least expensive.  Multi-color probably means 
multi-layers or some type of graphic printing on blank vinyl.  I don?t know how 
long the printing lasts.

Hope this helps.

Stu
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 13:47:03 -0400
From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 85
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Harald,

You should check the gooseneck swivel in detail, particularly the 3
vertical holes.

Mine was shot and the vertical holes looked like bathtubs instead of round
holes..  it's 45 bucks well spent..


http://www.offshorespars.com/store/spar-parts/swivels/12-boom-swivel/


-Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful
squecking,
> grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck.
> Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
>
> Harald
> Kitchener, On


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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 13:47:55 -0400
From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Stus-List Boom
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Harald,

You should check the gooseneck swivel in detail, particularly the 3
vertical holes.

Mine was shot and the vertical holes looked like bathtubs instead of round
holes..  it's 45 bucks well spent..


http://www.offshorespars.com/store/spar-parts/swivels/12-boom-swivel/


-Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful
squecking,
> grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck.
> Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
>
> Harald
> Kitchener,


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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:50:09 +0000
From: Kevin Driscoll <[email protected]>
To: "C&C List" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull
Message-ID:
        <CA+LFByqko_=S4WVC0VtDfsnSvLY55b=WTYTet=atvbhzdqv...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

A local sign maker made our lettering for ~$20. Looks great after many
seasons. Try someone outside of marine industry.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:33 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:

> Edd,
>
> You'll probably find that the vinyl will last longer than paint and be
> easier to remove/replace.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 22, 2015 10:53 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to
>> wear down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was
>> thinking of peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What
>> type of paint do you suggest I use? Brightside?
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Email address:
>> [email protected]
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Email address:
> [email protected]
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 18:12:35 +0000
From: "McNamee, Michael" <[email protected]>
To: Dennis C. <[email protected]>, CnClist <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List boom
Message-ID:
        
<bn1pr04mb533f7a0a561db00f88c851bfe...@bn1pr04mb533.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I?ve had the same problem, which prevented sleep in a rolly anchorage.   A 
simple solution was to sheet the boom fairly tight, then use a short length of 
3/8 inch line to pull the end of the boom over toward one side, in my case, to 
a jam cleat near the main jib sheet winch.  This is part of my normal procedure 
before turning in for the night.

Mike
C&C 30-2 ?Limerick?
Anacortes

From: Dennis C. [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 9:02 AM
To: CnClist <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List boom

Check the fasteners on the gooseneck/boom joint.
Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:24 AM, Harald Braun via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking, 
grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck. Really 
annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?

Harald
Kitchener, On



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------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 15:13:32 -0300
From: robert <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Stus-List Dry Ice Blasting
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

Fred:

The contractor's normal price was $40 per foot of boat length.....he
gave me a deal $20 per ft because he wanted to use me/my boat for
promotional purposes.   Now that was the Spring of 2006

Unfortunately for him, it didn't work very well......I think he got two
power boat owners at the club who witnessed the job on my boat.   I
still don't understand why this process isn't used more.

My boat was a real challenge.....it had 21 years of vinlylux and VC
17.....he said if he were doing a bottom with an ablative paint, it
would have taken half the time.....maybe why he gave me the half price
deal.....he didn't see the boat before he showed up to clean it.....we
normally don't use VC 17 here.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 2:37 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Bob,  how much was the cost for the dry ice blasting?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland Or
>
> On Oct 22, 2015 8:18 AM, "robert via CnC-List" <[email protected]
> <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>
>     I had the bottom dry ice blasted.....took about 5 hours.....great
>     job, little to know mess.....shop vaced the old paint from the
>     ground in 20 minutes.
>
>     Rob Abbott
>     AZURA
>     C&C 32 - 84
>     Halifax, N.S.
>
>     On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
>>     Hi David,
>>
>>     I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed
>>     to be good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an
>>     abrasive wheel. The guy did a remarkable job, but you really have
>>     to know what you're doing to avoid digging into the gelcoat)
>>
>>     As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed
>>     to trap moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local
>>     knowledge / recommendations as different waters / climates
>>     dictate different approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse
>>     for osmosis.
>>
>>     -Francois Rivard
>>     1990 34+ "Take Five"
>>     Lake Lanier, GA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>     > I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall
>>     and repaint
>>     > in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
>>     >
>>     > 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and
>>     the lower
>>     > uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the
>>     gelcoat and
>>     > little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any
>>     comments or
>>     > experience with the two technologies?
>>     >
>>     > 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom
>>     painting, but
>>     > the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a
>>     1990 era C&C,
>>     > it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically
>>     reduce the
>>     > amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on
>>     multiple barrier
>>     > coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a
>>     few coats?
>>     > Thanks- Dave
>>     >
>>     > Aries
>>     > 1990 C&C 34+
>>     > New London, CT
>>     Regards
>>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>     *Fran?ois Rivard*         4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
>>     Big Data Black Belt       Atlanta, 30327-3015
>>     IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales          Usa
>>     Mobile:  770-639-0429 <tel:770-639-0429>
>>     e-mail:  [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>
>>     Email address:
>>     [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
>>     To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> bottom of page at:
>>     http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Email address:
>     [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
>     To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
>     the bottom of page at:
>     http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Email address:
> [email protected]
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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>

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------------------------------

End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 86
*****************************************

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