IMO, 5200 doesn't belong anywhere near a thru-hull. If mine had been put in
with 5200 I doubt I would have been able to get them out to replace the
backing plates. And since (as I have said) they were in poor condition they
had to come out. As it was with a Groco step wrench and a bit of heat
applied (heat gun) they backed out easily. What wasn't easy was the
retaining nut. There was also no way, no how, no possibility of getting the
retaining nut off the back without cutting it off.
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe at Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2016 10:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe at Zialater
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1
Thanks so much for all the info Rick.
I have some Groco flushmount thru hulls that will fit the hole but have a
flange diameter that is smaller than the originals (whatever brand they
might be). I also have the Groco ball valves that fit on the thru hulls and
will work fine for the drains. The current plan is to install the new
smaller diameter flanges and fill in the 1/4 inch gap with epoxy or maybe
even 5200. Then paint over it and forget it!
Thanks Joel for the buckalgonquin link - they have flushmount thru hulls as
well but they are essentially the same size as the Grocos.
****************************************************************
"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
Forespar make Marlon ball valves with NPS threads in sizes from ?? to 1 ??.
(They also make ball valves with NPT, but NPT valves are for plumbing and
not thru hulls.) They also supply a range of tailpieces to connect the valve
to a hose.
Here is a link to the listing on West Marine:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/forespar--marelon-ball-valves-tailpieces--P011
_332_003_009
In addition, there is a regional marine supply wholesaler called the Paxton
Company in my area (in Norfolk and Wilmington, NC), and if I recall
correctly the bronze valves I used came from there. So bronze ball valves
with NPS are available, if a bit hard to come by.
I suspect that most of the time a flanged seacock gets used instead of
installing a nut on the seacock to secure it to the hull and a separate ball
valve above the nut. The bronze seacocks aren?t a lot more expensive than a
bronze valve. And BTW, on the WM site they have a flange (Groco I think)
with NPS on the bottom and a pipe thread coming off the top.
When I redid the plumbing on my 38 a few years ago, I used Marlon valves for
the larger thru hulls ? 1? and larger if I recall. The Marlon valves are
designed for some ridiculous number of cycles, tested for impact and gear to
hit them with lateral impact, you can actually stand on them, they never
corrode, and they are about half the cost of a bronze seacock. Maybe I?m
just being cheap, but I?m also pretty satisfied.
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