I heard from my yard manager yesterday that there is now a new chemical spray 
that when used with care and kept moist while it works with a wet rag will 
allow the removal of things attached with 5200. He claimed this was then the 
best adhesive to use for windows and other deck hardware instead of butyl tape.
 
I had planned to have the yard use the 3M tape to hold/seal my new port-lights 
in place when I had new ones made. The current ones are 'screwed' into the 
coach sides and sealed, probably with butyl tape when they were done 10 years 
ago or so.

My questions to the list are--has anyone heard of or used this stuff and could 
this be another, perhaps better, solution when replacing the windows?

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom
Oriental, NC

 
[email protected]

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List <[email protected]>
To: cnc-list <[email protected]>
Cc: Dave Godwin <[email protected]>
Sent: Tue, Mar 1, 2016 11:30 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Replacement


Dave,


There was a pretty good discussion on this subject back in November and another 
lister (sorry, can’t remember who it was) posted his impressive work on 
repairing and replacing his fixed ports. I posted something as regards tools 
that I used for removing the Plexus and prepping the ports for new panes. Keep 
in mind that I’m repainted the entire deck surfaces when the weather warms so I 
don’t have your requirement to be careful with the surrounding gelcoat…


Anyway, I would think that if you don’t remove the old Plexus you will not 
achieve a flush fit with the new panes.


Best,



Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit





On Mar 1, 2016, at 8:45 AM, Dave via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote:



In my window replacement project I've removed the old windows, most of the old 
adhesive, done a fair degree of damage to the gel coat and created one small 
chip in the surrounding fiberglass. There is a layer of old adhesive (brown) 
between the two windows (and a section where the adhesive came off with the old 
windows) which will be covered by the new plexiglass. 


Does anyone have a recommendation as to whether I should remove (sand/chisel) 
the adhesive that remains between the wndows or just bring everything else up 
to that level when doing the gel coat and fiberglass repairs?



Dave

Saltaire

C&C 35 Mk3

Bristol, RI


From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <[email protected]>
To: "C&C List" <[email protected]>
Cc: "Gary Russell" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 7:05:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3M tape



Doug and Fred,
     I used the 1/2" x 0.090" also.  Worked great and easy to use.
Gary



~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~






On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 9:43 PM, [email protected] <[email protected]> 
wrote:

    
Pretty sure I used the 1/2 inch by 0.090 thick stuff. 


    
Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38 
just west of Ballard, WA.    






------ Original message------
From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
Date: Mon, Feb 29, 2016 16:36
To: [email protected];
Cc: Fred Hazzard;
Subject:Re: Stus-List 3M tape



Doug what size did you use?
Fred
On Feb 29, 2016 4:32 PM, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:

    
I got a roll thru Amazon. 


    
Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38 
just west of Ballard, WA.    






------ Original message------
From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
Date: Mon, Feb 29, 2016 12:43
To: [email protected];
Cc: Fred Hazzard;
Subject:Stus-List 3M tape



I am looking for a source of the 3M tape vhb4991 to redo some windows.


Secondly I would like some ideas on removing the old windows I did 7 years ago 
with sikkens 295.   Along with removing the windows I will need to clean up the 
sikkens from the fiberglas to accept the 3M tape.


Thanks
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


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