I removed mine by fabricating a box wrench made of 6" length of 4" diameter pipe (confirm size that fits over donut). Insert temporary bolts into donut and let them protrude. Cut slots in one end of pipe to fit over and engage the bolts. Have a 2' long bar welded across the top of the pipe. This should provide adequate leverage to unscrew the donut collar. Use temporary bolts as the box wrench may deform the threads. The original bolts can be reused to reinstall. Harvey
Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:25 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Wow! You've done everything I would have tried but one. Try beer. > > Buy a 30 pack of Coors Light and have it iced down, in a cooler, at your > boat, and let it be known to the yard mechanics that that is the reward for > getting your rudder free. I expect at least one mechanic will be over after > work and others may join to help him get it done for you. If you can get the > guys interested, the worst that will happen is you will make a lot of friends > with the yard mechanics. But I think someone will accept the challenge and > step up and prove himself. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > From: "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: "Patrick Davin" <jda...@gmail.com> > Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45:29 PM > Subject: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal > > I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder. > > The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust bearing > in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws and am > attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up (enough > that that delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning). > > This is the donut pictured on Wally's page: > http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg > http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/ > > He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past > occasions, and later with that strap wrench. I've already applied far more > force than a strap wrench with no luck. :( > > I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently they > have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are > backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can keep > trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away at it > for $105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do > that now if they could get it loose. > > I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws: > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html > (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?) > > And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and > yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one. > > Things I've tried: > - PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw > holes, and around the bottom. > - Loctite Freeze + Release > - oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip > - threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - quickly > abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized it would > strip the set screw holes. > - C clamps > - Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very > successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel) > - Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering on > the hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that would > finally work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose clamp > does the best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and had no > slippage. > > Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time getting > the donut off, or found anything else that worked? > > The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things to > try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new one > ($500). > > If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing box, > because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been adjusted > in 5 years). > > -Patrick > 1984 C&C Landfall 38 > Violet Hour, Seattle, WA > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated!
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