Hi Bettina,

Thanks!  Did you do kiwi grip for the non skid sections and Brightside on the 
rest of your deck and cabin top?

Ryan 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 29, 2016, at 9:41 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux (Persuasion)
>   2. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux (Randy Stafford)
>   3. Re:  C&C Nutshell dinghy (Paul Fountain)
>   4.  Propeller (Robin Drew)
>   5.  Kent island narrows (Joe Della Barba)
>   6. Re:  Propeller (IRVIN)
>   7. Re:  Propeller (S Thomas)
>   8.  Raymarine in Halifax? (Dave Syer)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2016 12:46:27 -0400
> From: Persuasion <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Bettina
> 
> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
> 
> Thanks
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
> Sent from my Xperia? tablet
> 
> ---- Bmue via CnC-List wrote ----
> 
>> Ryan,
>> Nice job.
>> Re finishing the topside.
>> Just do it. 
>> 
>> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
>> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige 
>> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
>> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
>> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
>> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>> 
>> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
>> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
>> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
>> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
>> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
>> 
>> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
>> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
>> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
>> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
>> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
>> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
>> 
>> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
>> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have 
>> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but 
>> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
>> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
>> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
>> parts of the deck. 
>> 
>> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
>> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
>> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
>> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
>> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
>> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
>> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
>> 
>> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
>> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
>> finally came around.
>> 
>> Bettina
>> 
>> C&C 25 Savannah
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <[email protected]> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> at
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> -------------- next part --------------
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2016 11:42:20 -0600
> From: Randy Stafford <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii
> 
> Way to go Bettina, and Ryan. Nice work.
> 
> Regarding where the leaks are coming from at the toe rail / deck-hull joint, 
> I took Don Casey's suggestion and traced under the joint on the inside with a 
> washable marker (plus around the chainplates on the inside). Worked like a 
> charm. I've confirmed leakage from my port chainplate and one spot under the 
> toe rail on the starboard bow.
> 
> Next offseason I'll pull the chainplate and re-bed them. For the toe rail 
> leak I'm hoping I can get away with tightening a few bolts.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 28, 2016, at 9:33 AM, Bmue via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>> Ryan,
>> Nice job.
>> Re finishing the topside.
>> Just do it. 
>> 
>> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
>> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige 
>> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
>> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
>> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
>> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>> 
>> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
>> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
>> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
>> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
>> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
>> 
>> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
>> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
>> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
>> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
>> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
>> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
>> 
>> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
>> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have 
>> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but 
>> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
>> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
>> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
>> parts of the deck. 
>> 
>> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
>> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
>> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
>> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
>> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
>> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
>> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
>> 
>> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
>> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
>> finally came around.
>> 
>> Bettina
>> 
>> C&C 25 Savannah
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <[email protected]> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> at
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2016 19:47:53 +0000
> From: Paul Fountain <[email protected]>
> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nutshell dinghy
> Message-ID:
>    <e8a48011ee2f9a39.cfa5a178-96d9-4118-9cd1-b1ec9e38a...@mail.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> PCYC also had them for their junior sail program ....
> 
> Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sat, May 28, 2016 at 8:46 AM -0700, "Robert Mazza via CnC-List" 
> <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
> 
> Actually, my recollection was that the Nutshell was an open dinghy not unlike 
> the old Flying Junior. It was used in the Niagara-on-the-Lake Sailing Club 
> Junior Club program and I believe was designed and built by George 
> Hinterhoeller prior to the creation of C&C Yachts.
> 
> Rob
> 
> On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 10:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
> Kimon,
> C&C designed a few sailing dinghies, but the Nutshell Dinghy is a non C&C 
> wood lapstrake 10 ft pram design.
> See: 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=Nutshell+dinghy&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwif44b12PvMAhUDNSYKHYtjCLYQ_AUIBygB&biw=1354&bih=613
> 
> 
> C&C designed the Harpoon 4.6, 5.2 and 6.2 built by Boston Whaler.
> https://www.google.com/search?q=harpoon+dinghy&biw=1354&bih=613&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiDtNDd2PvMAhVKKyYKHSp6CEAQ_AUIByg<https://www.google.com/search?q=harpoon+dinghy&biw=1354&bih=613&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiDtNDd2PvMAhVKKyYKHSp6CEAQ_AUIBygC>
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> ________________________________
> From: "Kimon Tzaratzouris via CnC-List" 
> <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Cc: "Kimon Tzaratzouris" <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 2:14:34 PM
> Subject: Stus-List C&C Nutshell dinghy
> 
> 
> Hello,
> I bought a sailboat dinghy to sail in the small lakes around us. It is a 13' 
> C&C Yachts serial # NS12771N. I was told the model is "Nutshell". I cannot 
> find any information on it and was wondering if anyone has heard or knows 
> anything about it. It is light (about 200 lbs. I think) and a very fast 
> little sailboat.
> Any info would be appreciated,
> Thanks, Kimon
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2016 17:26:55 -0400
> From: Robin Drew <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Stus-List Propeller
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
> 
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2016 19:49:52 -0400
> From: Joe Della Barba <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Stus-List Kent island narrows
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii
> 
> Got through at mid tide no problem in the new temp channel.  Water in st 
> mikes is so clear I could see weeds and bottom. I can see all of rudder easy 
> and it really needs cleaning!  Joe coquina 35 mk 1
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2016 21:53:19 -0400
> From: IRVIN <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Could need to be re-balanced.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 28, 2016, at 5:26 PM, Robin Drew via CnC-List <[email protected]> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
>> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
>> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
>> 
>> Robin Drew
>> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 04:32:41 -0400
> From: "S Thomas" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
> Message-ID: <9631DCD723B9487E952C55AD93D12BB9@mordor>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
> open all the way?
> Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
> I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
> supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
> teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
> all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
> The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
> the problem you describe. 
> There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON  
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
>  To: [email protected] 
>  Cc: Robin Drew 
>  Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
>  Subject: Stus-List Propeller
> 
> 
>  I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
> 
>  Robin Drew
>  Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> 
>  "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
>  _______________________________________________
> 
>  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 09:40:48 -0400
> From: Dave Syer <[email protected]>
> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine in Halifax?
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi All,
> Work vs life again, I find myself hoping to pick up some parts for Windstar 
> while in Halifax on business this week.   Specifically, Raymarine SeatalkNG 
> cables.
> Can anyone suggest the most likely stockist?  Many thanks, Dave
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
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> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 124, Issue 131
> ******************************************

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