Francois, The "correct" method isn't that much more labor intensive. You're probably going to have to glass in a platform for the linear drive and one for a rudder position sensor. You can tie off a line to the bail on the rudder stalk and then lower it, even while in the water. Pull the support line to the opposite site of the tube so that it doesn't get cut while cutting the rudder tube. To ensure alignment, and reduce the effects of expansion, compression, and torque, I would glass in supports that bridge the gap prior to cutting the tube.
You may have already seem pictures but here's a link. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc The other advantage of the under deck install is that you don't loose any/much of the storage area in the aft-port lazarette. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 1, 2016 10:46 AM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Chuck, > > How about making a custom tiller arm that fits into the emergency tiller > fitting above the radial drive? I saw that done online and thought that was > rather clever. I've also been mulling this over for a couple years now and > that's the best "easy" solution I saw. > > > I have a similar situation where I would prefer a linear drive on my 34+ > and for me there's no "Below deck" option as the radial drive sits over the > cockpit floor under a cover in the pass through to the open stern swim > ladder. The "correct" way involves dropping the rudder, cutting the tube > below decks, slipping a tiller through, then custom glassing proper > supports and shelving.. That's a pretty labor intensive project.. > > > -Francois Rivard > 1990 34+ "Take Five" > Lake Lanier, GA > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
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