I replaced my 'frameless windows', without screws or any other holding
device, about 8 years ago. There have been no issues to date, no leaks,
looks as good as when the boat came from the factory.
The project was not expensive but it was labor intensive......I didn't
exactly measure the hours but I estimate about 40 to 50 hours from the
time I cut the old ones out to the time I peeled the paper covering off
the new ones. I used Sika 295UV and the Sika primer and that adhesive
has held up over the past 8 years.
Many of the contractors in our area won't take on a windows replacement
job without 'screws or frames' because of the 'labor cost' they have to
quote.....$350 for materials and $3,500 for labor......they say the
clients think they are getting ripped off. Well, from someone who has
done the job, I understand the labor component.
One of the challenges is holding the new windows in place while the
adhesive cures and the forward window(s) must fit into a cavity that has
slight curve to it. I did the job in the Spring when the boat was
under shrink wrap, went around the boatyard and collected the 2" X 4"
wood from covers, cut 23" pieces and when I placed a new window into
position, I wedged three pieces of 2" x 4" against each window to the
toe rail and placed 10 to 15 lbs. on each 2" x 4" to secure it in
place. Left this for 3 days before removing the wood.
8 seasons later, I have no leaking windows and it looks good. So it
can be done without screws and frames and look the way C&C intended it.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2016-08-31 11:18 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Hmmm … beg to differ
Over the years I have heard too many stories of the frameless C&C
windows leaking and the difficulties rebedding. On top of that the
one single persistent problem in the C&C 36 that we had new from 1980
thru 1990 was leaking windows and difficulty resealing. On our J Boat
with screwed in windows I simply removed screws, removed window pane,
cleaned edges of window and frame and then added a bead of silicon and
screwed back in place. 20 minutes a window, no leaks and extremely simple
However .. and it is a big however … screwed in windows where they
were not supposed to be screwed in do not always look right. Our
Niagara 26 used the same 35” aluminum extruded frames as the C&Cs of
the 70s. Previous owner had decided to remove the frames and screw a
piece of plexi over the opening. It looked awful. We purchased “new”
frames from Rob at South Shore (they were new and sat outside unused
for 20+ years) and it looked far better. Probably won’t look right on
the 80s C&Cs either…
My $0.02
Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
(with glued in place windows and no frames or screws)
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of
*mike amirault via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, August 30, 2016 5:11 PM
*To:* [email protected]
*Cc:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Window Leak
I agree with Alan; more screws are just going to make the leak worse.
Get rid of the screws, fill the holes and glue the window with Sika,
or Dow795 or VHB tape.
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!