Dave, if you soldered a crimped connection in the harness shop I worked at the Quality Assurance folks would hang your head on a light pole in the parking lot as a warning to others! We built wire harnesses for tanks, helicopters, and fighter jets.
I think the attached .pdf is small enough to sneak through the server, I draw your attention to the 2nd last page. As to sourcing terminals, Digikey is a good and reasonably priced source if you are buying quantities. If you only need 4 then not so great. A good quality crimp tool is key. Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 On 2016-12-11 2:13 AM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote: Flanged has the ends bent up and locking has a narrowing of the space between the fork's tines that means the terminal has to be clicked into place. Either works for me. Fred mentions that he prefers rings because they wont fall off shoudl the screw loosen. I prefer locking forks because I wont fumble and drop the removed terminal block screw in the bilge! (its the kind of thing I do...) and sometimes the terminal screws are staked into the terminal block and can't be removed. Ancor stuff is fine but remember they just repackage for the marine market and there are lots of industrial options out there if you have access or want to bother looking around a bit. The best (most rugged) hand crimp-able terminals are non insulated terminals that have a second sleeve of metal over the crimp sleeve. (i forget the industry term at the moment...) The self encapsulating insulated terminals Rick mentions are nice. but I think that crimping, then soldering a quality non-insulated terminal then strain relieving with heatshrink (to alleviate the solder hard spot that wicks up the conductor) is the best solution of all, and looks like it was done by a mil qualified harness shop. (past life...) This will outlast the boat and owner and never oxidize or give trouble. Doesn't take much longer. Dave ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Rick Brass <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Cc: Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500 Subject: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Rick Brass <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Cc: Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light.. Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the “bent up” ends – I think they are called “flanged”. And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and keep out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion. Rick Brass Washington, NC.. Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the “bent up” ends – I think they are called “flanged”. And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and keep out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion. Rick Brass Washington, NC _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
electricalTerminals.pdf
Description: electricalTerminals.pdf
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
