Hi randy,
It seems you are definitely going in the right direction. I had a
problem like this on one of my old boats but, under the bow rail feet.
I traced out the size of the plate and oped things up a bit with a hole
saw to give deeper access. This aloowed me to get a more substantial
tool in there that the bent nail or allen key. That metod is fine if
your water intrusion is kind enough to be in a perfect circle that
exactly the same depth as your nail or allen key. Otherwise, it gets
caught, bends, twists, rips the drill out of your hands if your not
ready for it. It just isn't really that great in practice, at least it
wasn't for me. I ended up, doing the hole saw and got an old screw
driver, I didn't mind bending, (you could also get some cheapies from
harbor freight or the like) and started digging. This also give you a
better feel for the density of the wood your digging at. You can
actually feel the difference between soggy, moist and dry on the screw
driver. I then let it sit open for s few weeks. If you have this
luxury it would be best. if not, heat guns and the like work pretty
good but, I'd say the more time you can allow will be a benefit. After
drying, I think you have all the techique you need already offered to
fill it all back in.
Now, Bedding, I would urge you to read this article by MaineSail from
compass marine.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
This guy is is a bit of a scientist. he does real world experiments and
bases his opinions on his findings. Whenever I have to tackle a new
project, I go to his site to see if he's done a write up first. Lots of
photos and insights and pros and cons to all his recommendations. I
have never been disappointed following his techniques.
Danny
On 1/30/2017 8:31 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List wrote:
Randy,
When I rebed my chainplates 2 years ago – had to dig out the wet balsa
and replace with epoxy using the chainplates wrapped in wax paper as
plugs / forms – found the chainplates themselves were quite corroded
on the back side which was against the bulkhead. Several of the
stainless bolts were severely rusted and the chainplates had tiny
cracks fully through the metal at the bolt holes. Had new chainplates
fabricated.
As you are in fresh water it may not be as much of an issue, but if
your boat lived much of its life in saltwater previously, there may be
damage to the metal. Make sure you closely examine the chainplates
for any corrosion!
Brian
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*RANDY via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, January 29, 2017 10:05 PM
*To:* cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates
Thanks Dennis (and Gary and Sam). Let me see where I stand on Tuesday
- I may be ready to epoxy if I can do the bent nail and acetone thing
tomorrow. Let's call or text on Tuesday.
Gary - my chainplate covers are aluminum and still in good shape, just
needed a really good cleaning (probably 44 years' worth of various
sealant jobs built up on their undersides).
Sam - yes my chainplates bolt to fiberglass "knees" tabbed to the
hull. And the chainplates and knees are in good shape - no sign of
weakening from exposure to moisture. I just want to make sure I do a
proper job of sealing it all up so I don't get more coring in the deck
going forward. Unfortunately it looks like my boat's previous owners
didn't do a proper job (e.g. per Don Casey's prescriptions) of keeping
this area sealed, and a little bit of coring occurred. The starboard
side was all gooped up with clear silicone, and the port side had an
ineffective bead of white caulk around the edge of the cover, and both
sides had hard-as-rock probably original white-colored sealant under
those other sealants.
I'll be using polysulfide (Life Caulk) per Don Casey for the
re-bedding sealant.
Cheers,
Randy
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*To: *"cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc: *"Dennis" <capt...@gmail.com <mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
*Sent: *Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:30:09 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates
Randy,
You're on the right track. Wish I'd known you were doing that, I
would have stopped by and taken a peek. I'm back up in the mountains now.
If it was me, I'd remove the wet core as far back as I could with bent
nail, etc., dry it with acetone and/or heat gun, tape the area, inject
some neat epoxy until it was level with the deck, use bent nail to
agitate it then quickly suck out the epoxy. That will coat the exposed
surfaces so the thickened epoxy will bond better. Then I'd inject
thickened epoxy, let it cure and re-install the chalnplates. Don't
forget to chamfer the hole so the bedding plate doesn't sit down on a
square edged cut.
I'm headed back down to the airport Tuesday afternoon. Got to pick up
my ski buddies Wednesday morning. I might be able to swing by the dry
storage on the way.
Dennis C.
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