Read Nigel Calder's article (Diesel Issues) in March issue of 'Sail' for a different take on infrequent filter changes and the potential consequences.
On Thu, Mar 30, 2017, 8:35 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: > My Racor is a finer filter than the 10 micron filter on the engine. 4 > micron if I recall, which is contrary to the normal process. It is a screw > on element with a clear plastic bowl on the bottom. Inspection of the bowl > will show water, and discoloration if there is any contamination being > filtered out of the fuel. I have about 700 hours on the engine since > installation in 2011, and so far no indication that the filter needs to be > replaced. Turning on the lift pump will do no good, since the filter is on > the suction side of the pump. On my Racor, you put the bowl on the bottom > of the element, put clean fuel into the element, install on the filter > head. There is a bleed screw to be cracked on the output side of the filter > head, and a plastic “knob” in the top of the filter head. Unscrew the knob > and it becomes part of a small piston pump you use to pump fuel into the > filter from the tank until fuel comes out the bleed screw. > > > > I know that some on the list have put a fuel squeeze bulb in the fuel line > before the Racor filter, and use that to fill and bleed the Racor filter > instead of the little piston pump built into the filter head. > > > > The trash filter is about 70-80 micron. Mine is a little cylindrical > cartridge filter just a couple of inches long and maybe ½” diameter. Since > the Racor filters well below 70 micron, I’ve never changed the trash > filter. (I do have a spare aboard, though, since it came as part of the > Universal spares package. > > > > The main filter on the side of the engine (which I think of as the > secondary filter) is a little 10 micron spin on between the lift pump and > the injection pump. IIRC, it is oriented with the screw fitting on top, so > you fill the new filter with clean fuel (to cut down on the amount of air > that needs to be bled) and screw it on. (I really wish they had oriented > the oil filter up and down instead of laying it on its side.) Turn on the > lift pump, crank the engine, and Bob’s your uncle. > > > > Rick Brass > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *David > Knecht via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:07 PM > *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <[email protected]> > *Cc:* David Knecht <[email protected]> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement > > > > Hi Rick- There are three filters and I was planning on changing all of > them since I have no idea how old they are (>3 years). > > The Racor is a 30µm filter. It sounds like this one needs to be bled, so > I am guessing there is a bleed screw on top, so I would fill the bowl, > loosen the screw and then turn on the pump switch until fuel comes out the > screw. > > The second is a spin on filter on the engine. Do you just swap it or fill > it with diesel first? > > The third is the “trash filter” which the manual just calls a fuel filter > and looks like just a mesh basket. Presumably you would just swap new for > old. Not sure I am going to bother with that since I suspect it is going > to be challenging to get to with limited access to that side of the engine. > > > > > Thanks- Dave > > > > On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < > [email protected]> wrote: > > > > Depends on which filter you’re talking about. > > > > The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the > Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the > engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and > crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit > of throttle, but it will start. > > > > If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the > tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so > much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless > you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I > think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38. > > > > As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if > you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this > little filter. > > > > Rick Brass > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected] > <[email protected]>] *On Behalf Of *David Knecht via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM > *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <[email protected]> > *Cc:* David Knecht <[email protected]> > *Subject:* Stus-List Fuel filter replacement > > > > I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my > Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. > The manual says it has a continuous bleed system. What it doesn’t say is > what that means. Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the > fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed > screws? If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the > system. I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous > Yanmar after changing filters. Thanks- Dave > > > > Aries > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > New London, CT > > > <image001.png> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > Aries > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > New London, CT > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > -- Kevin Driscoll Associate Vallaster Corl Architects, Inc. Direct: 503 875 3493 Main: 503.228.0311
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