Stus-List Horizontal filter replacement tip

[bwhitmore--- via CnC-List]

Hello all,  

I saw one tip on replacing horizontal oil and fuel filters that works for me.  Loosen it so that it will just turn by hand.  Punch a hole in the top side of the filter.  Then turn it so that it starts to drain into a cup.  You may need to punch another hole on the opposite side to let air in so it drains.

Kindest Regards, 

Bruce

C&C 37/40+

Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 3/31/2017 11:42 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

I hated how much fuel needed to be vented off my racor 200FG and it still never seemed to be completely vented.  The original vent was just a knurled knob on the outlet sife fitting.  It wasn't even at the highest point of the filter housing and didn't allow catching the vented fuel.  I started thinking about how to maybe get a higher vent point.  First I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of the housing and put a typical brake bleed type of fitting.  It worked but necessitated using small tubing to direct the vented fuel into a bottle.  It wasn't until I performed this mod that I realized just how much fuel needed to be vented in order to flush all the air out of the filter.  I was usually looking at about 1 gallon of fuel just to get all the air out.

I started thinking about how to direct that vented fuel back to the tank.  I was going to run a return fuel line when it occurred to me that the engine already has a return fuel line from the injectors.  I changed the bleeder valve to a t-handle valve.  Then I inserted a tee fitting and t-handled valve in the return fuel hose.  Then I connected the 2 t-handled valves with some clear tubing.

The 2 t-handled valves isolate the vent tubing during normal operation and maintain the integrity of the original components.  When venting, both t-handled valves are openwd to create a flow path back to the tank.  You can watch the air bubbles in the clear tubing disapate as the vent continues.

See my video at about 2:10 minutes.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m12s

These engines take a 2 micron engine filter and I run a 2 micron racor. The racor is now easier to change and bleed so I prefer it to clog first.  I also show a vacuum gage which I installed on my racor in the video.  A new racor filter has shown to have very low vacuum so whenever it starts to creep up I change it...hasn't happened yet.

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Mar 30, 2017 7:18 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Depends on which filter you’re talking about.

 

The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit of throttle, but it will start.

 

If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.

 

As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this little filter.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

 

I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws?  If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system.  I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after changing filters.  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT

 

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_______________________________________________

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!