Normally, I use 3mm parachute cord for connecting new/old halyards, etc. However, a connector that is often overlooked is dental floss. My rigger buddy and I use it frequently for tight clearance sheaves. Makes a small splice that will pass through narrow spaces. A caution, it will be slippery on wire so put a LOT of half hitches and wrap tightly with tape. Again, keep the splice small. Also, make absolutely certain to keep tension on the lines to keep the floss on the sheave. If there is a gap between the new and old lines, there is a risk that the floss will go off the sheave and get caught between the sheave and the sheave fitting. That sucks.
Also helps to lubricate the tape. We use TefGel but soap or detergent should work. Sucks to lose a splice and have to go aloft to re-feed a halyard when you can do it all from the deck. Dennis C. On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 3:37 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < [email protected]> wrote: > I used electrical tape. I can't recall any drama from exchanging the > halyards. > > I changed from wire-rope to all rope. I recommend that you consider doing > the same. The wire can chew up the sheeve and everything inside the mast. > When it starts to fail you get fish hooks which are dangerous and even more > damaging. The wire was used because of its low stretch properties but now > with modern fibers you can accomplish the same and reduce the weight > aloft. With all rope you can filp the line end for end or freshen up the > shackle end. > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ > > As for the sheeve. Since it was made for a rope-wire it is likely that it > will accommodate an all rope halyard. My sheeve was a v-groove which > facilitated my wire or rope up to 7/16" or 1/2". > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On May 12, 2017 3:31 PM, "Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List" < > [email protected]> wrote: > >> Hi, experts! >> It's time to replace my main halyard on my LF38. The original is >> wire-to-rope, and I plan to replace with the same (3/16 7X19 wire, 7/16 >> doublebraid). I have noted that the halyard sheave at the masthead is quite >> small and narrow - for wire only - meaning the halyard could jam if the >> rope part (or likely, the transition from wire to rope section) had to pass >> over it. Therefore it seems the only way to safely do this (no desire to >> climb the mast) would be to (1) raise the halyard up (with a line on the >> sail head shackle) to the point where wire is exiting the mast at the >> bottom, (2) cut the old wire here or near where it joins the old rope, 3) >> attach the shackle-end of the new wire halyard to the tail-end (cut) of the >> old wire, and (4) carefully pull downward on the old wire outside to bring >> the new wire up inside the mast and over the sheave and down where I will >> either swage a thimble for the shackle or use a swageless fitting. >> First, I don't see any other logical way to do this, and it should be >> pretty simple as long as the two wires are well connected in a smooth slim >> way so that nothing gets hung up inside the mast or on the sheave. >> Second, I'm thinking it's better to temporarily join the two wire ends >> than to attach a messenger first to remove the old halyard, and then a >> second messenger attachment to install the new halyard. Either way, a >> messenger line or the new wire has to be connected to the old wire, so why >> not do this just once rather than twice with twice the risk of something >> happening. >> Let me know if you see any fallacies or problems in my thinking so far. >> So the question I face is how best to temporarily make a "butt joint" of >> two wire ends for pulling the new halyard through the mast? I know how to >> do this with rope, which can be stitched together and then taped, so that >> the tape itself is taking the full burden, but you can't "stitch" 7X19 wire >> as easily. (Or maybe one can? Twist it open a bit to sneak a flexible wire >> or strong thin line through and then twist it back to shape and hope the >> wire's flexibility and shape haven't been altered, and repeat with the >> other wire end, then tape?) Could I risk a good tape by itself holding the >> ends together? (There seems to be no friction at all inside the mast - I'm >> just concerned with getting the "joint" over the sheave smoothly.) Or maybe >> tape and then wrap over the tape very tightly with a thin waxed line? Any >> great ideas on the safest way to do this? >> Thanks! >> Tom Lochhaas >> 1980 LF38 Topanga II >> Newburyport, MA >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
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