Hey Brian,

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
boom has room to be lifted.

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
boom just forward of the dodger.

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
that yours is a 37?

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <[email protected]>
wrote:

Greetings everyone,

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
looking for some guidance.

Regards,

-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C&C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida

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