Fred,

I'd suggest following the advice in the Sail Mag article

http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/

And http://svjohannarose.blogspot.ca/search/label/NewPorts

I did my windows this spring.  It went pretty smoothly.  I initially thought I'd want to spread the sealant on the cabin side before I attached the window - but couldn't see how I could keep the tape clean.  In the end - using the "tape hinge" method to get the window in the right place and attached, then masking around the window and squeezing the caulk sealant in from the outside filled the gap easier than I expected.

The biggest challenge I had (after getting the windows out) was cutting and shaping my windows.  Putting them in and sealing was a long day - but not as fraught with challenges as most other boat projects I've faced.

Mark

CS 30 - Prosecco

Deep Cove Nova Scotia


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-07-26 11:25 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, Fred — as long as the peel-off backing is still on both sides of the tape, you can cut it with a sharp scissors.  I just did a square or angled cut as needed to the tape, then butted the next piece right up to the previous piece and kept going.

If I understand your second question, when I had the acrylic cut for the new windows, I made sure I had at least 1/8” or more all the way around the window between the acrylic and the mortise into the cabin top; then the Dow 795 was “injected” into that gap under pressure so it squeezed around under the acrylic up to where the tape was.  I also tended to hold the tape off the inside opening a bit, so it didn’t show so much from the inside.  That made for less of a gap between the outside edge of the acrylic and the tape under it.

And the VHB tape isn’t really permanent; it just sticks really well.  If you get a putty knife into the small crack between the acrylic and the cabin top from inside the boat, you’ll eventually be able to work your way around the opening and get the thing loose.  But it’ll take a while, and you’ll definitely wreck the old acrylic in the process.  Hopefully, you’ll have many years before you’ll need to do this…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 26, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me.

Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp blade?  The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight turns.  The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime.

Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon.  When do I apply the silicon?  Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I apply pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I can see difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8" thick. 

Another question is more of a long term problem.  Assuming that I have my boat until the windows need replacing again,  how will I be able to remove one if the tape is "permanent".

Any other suggestions about the use of the tape will be appreciated.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or


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