The outer diameter is a press fit into the deal bore. The green coating on the deal is a dealer of sorts. Take a socket kusing the closed end]or a seal installer tool and drive the deal into the clean bore. Make sure it is oriented in the proper direction. The seal lip should be facing the fluid you want to stop. Usually there are 2 seals facing opposite directions. The first seal will have the lip facing the impeller and be bottomed in the bore. The second deal will have the lip facing the engine and be flush with the bore end. This is true of the pump is engine driven and not belt driven. Hope this helps
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 -------- Original message --------From: Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 9/3/17 09:17 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Daryl McKelvie <darylmckel...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Sherwood pump oil seal Has anyone any experience replacing the oil seal at the back of the Sherwood raw water pump? I have the replacement oil seal part number 18806, cost 20.82, it has a green outer casing and looks like it should slide right into the end of the pump body that faces the engine, however that bore seems to be just slightly smaller, is there maybe a trick to this?This is the universal M35, I realize lots have switched to the oberdorfer and I might eventually but just want to get this one back together for now, maybe get 1 or 2 more sails out of this year then call it a year. There wasn't much left of the old one that came out so can't even say what it even looked like, will be stripping the rest of the pump right down to clean out the remnants of the old one.Thanx very much. Daryl McKelvieS/V SkellySarnia Ontario
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