Thanks all for the info, I just added another item on the to do list for the winter, fuel tank, hoses etc. Hervey, Ciothog 35-1
On Sep 10, 2017 10:40 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to > cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Height of C&c 40 (Josh Muckley) > 2. Re: Question about awlgrip hull pain (Dennis C.) > 3. Re: Fuel tank replacement 35-1 (wwadjo...@aol.com) > 4. Re: Height of C&c 40 (PETER OCAMPO) > 5. Re: Fuel tank replacement 35-1 (Joe Della Barba) > 6. Re: Question about awlgrip hull pain (Dave Godwin) > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> > To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 08:49:28 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Height of C&c 40 > It is important to differentiate between the 1980's vintage of C&C 40 and > the 1994/1995 C&C 40 which is the same series as the 37+, 37/40, 37R, and > 37XL which started in 1989. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Sep 8, 2017 10:46 AM, "PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi >> >> Does anyone know the height of a standard C&c 40 from keel to highest >> point on cabin or pulpit boat transporter needs to know >> >> Thanks >> >> Peter >> C&c 40 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com> > To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 07:53:32 -0500 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain > There is also Awlcraft 2000 which is a "softer", more easily repaired > version of Awlgrip. I had Touche' painted with Awlcraft in 2011. Still > looks great. Still getting compliments. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Awlgrip is the original paint which is beautiful because it has a color >> and clear coat in the same application. The color settles and the clear >> comes to the surface. This makes for the brilliant, long lasting shine. >> The problem comes when repairs are required. In order to repair a damaged >> area the border between old and nem needs to be feathered in. This creates >> a halo around the damaged area and is caused by the separate layers of >> clear and color. The company insists that only their soap is formulated to >> prevent damaging the finish. They also insist that any amount of >> polishing/buffing/sanding/or waxing will cause damage to the paint, >> subsequently hold dirt and look dull. >> >> Awlgrip has come out with a newer product called Awlgrip 2000 and it >> doesn't have the separate clear and color parts. It isn't quite as >> beautiful when new but it is easier to repair. I'm not sure about >> polishing. >> >> There is a second company which was recommended to me by a boat yard >> called Alex Seal. They said that it looks and works almost exactly like >> Awlgrip 2000 but is cheaper. They pointed to what looked like a new travel >> lift and said they had rebuilt it 5 years ago and that it was a 20 year old >> lift. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> >> > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: wwadjo...@aol.com > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 08:54:02 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1 > > Thanks Dennis... > Bill Walker > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: PETER OCAMPO <bcwwka...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 08:55:17 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Height of C&c 40 > My bad > > 1983 7 ft keel. Aft cabin > > Thanks > > Peter > C&c 40 1983 > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 10, 2017, at 8:49 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > It is important to differentiate between the 1980's vintage of C&C 40 and > the 1994/1995 C&C 40 which is the same series as the 37+, 37/40, 37R, and > 37XL which started in 1989. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Sep 8, 2017 10:46 AM, "PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi >> >> Does anyone know the height of a standard C&c 40 from keel to highest >> point on cabin or pulpit boat transporter needs to know >> >> Thanks >> >> Peter >> C&c 40 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Joe Della Barba <j...@dellabarba.com> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 09:03:20 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1 > > I have replaced my fuel tank. It is pretty easy, it comes right out once > you empty all the stuff out of the locker. > WARNING: > > The original fuel tank in the MK I is ternplate and it WILL leak sooner or > later. > > The original fill and vent hoses are NOT ethanol rated and will dissolve > from the inside out, dropping rubber pieces into the tank. > > The 90 degree rubber elbow thing is NOT fuel rated and will come apart > sooner or later. Mine spilt while fueling and dumped 5 gallons into the > bilge. I got a new one fabricated from aluminum at my local welding shop. > > A C&C 35 MK I exploded and burned after refueling and I will bet anything > it was the rubber elbow. I would have too if I hadn’t caught it with the > blower. > > The supply hose is likewise not ethanol rated. If you still have copper > line, that is no longer used, it eventually cracks. > > Really nothing but the filler should be original and I got a new cap for > that because the old O-ring was not sealing. > > > > I think my tank now is this one – been awhile since I bought it. > > https://www.westmarine.com/buy/rds-manufacturing--below- > deck-aluminum-fuel-tank-18ga--244485?recordNum=2 > > > > Joe Della Barba > > j...@dellabarba.com > > > > Coquina > > C&C 35 MK i > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis > C. via CnC-List > *Sent:* Sunday, September 10, 2017 8:47 AM > *To:* CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc:* Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1 > > > > I have a Plastimo (black) but would rather have a Moeller (translucent) > because you can see the fuel level. Not sure about your configuration but > you should be able to find a close fit. > > > > http://moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel- > tanks/ > > > > Determine which model best fits then go online shopping using the model > number. > > > > Dennis C. > > > > On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 7:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on > Friday....really. > Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar > furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me. > Dennis, what tank do you recommend? Good website for fitting install in > plastic? Or do the come ready to go? > Bill Walker CnC 36 > Penteater, Mi > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > ------------------------------ > > On Saturday, September 9, 2017 Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Like Neil says, removing the tank is not difficult. Last time I pulled > mine took less than an hour. I needed to get to the strut bolts. > > > > The concern is the elbow on the fill hose. If you damage it, replacement > may be difficult. Gates makes an elbow that can be cut to fit but you may > need a coupling or nipple to make it work. > > > > If your fill hose is original, I STRONGLY suggest you replace it. It is > well past its useful life. > > > > Dennis C. > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > Mandeville, LA > > > > On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hervey, > > Getting it out was not too difficult, the tank fits out through the > lazarette under the starboard seat. My tank was held in place by two > galvanized steel straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest part > was undoing the fill and vent connections, had to get to them through the > panel at the aft end of the port quarter berth. > > As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was a > pain. If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, little > bit of a struggle to make it tight. I used fabric straps to hold the new > plastic tank down. My tank gauge has never worked so I just look through > the wall of the tank to see the level. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 10:39:26 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain > I used Awlcraft 2000 for the hull and the decks. I had already decided to > use it after talking to the Alexseal rep (good stuff, same as Awlcraft > 2000) and when conferring with my painter he said that that was they only > shot Awlcraft on new builds and repairs. Another former professional > painter from Zimmerman Marine preferred it. > > I’ve been able do some buffing of areas with a bit of orange peel. > Repairability was tops on my list both because I was going to be doing the > painting and because I run into things. Often... > > As far as it not being as “beautiful” as Awlgrip, well, I’m fairly certain > that no-one can tell the difference between well-done Awlcraft and Awlgrip. > Maybe a professional. > > Best, > Dave Godwin > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay > Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > > On Sep 10, 2017, at 8:53 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > There is also Awlcraft 2000 which is a "softer", more easily repaired > version of Awlgrip. I had Touche' painted with Awlcraft in 2011. Still > looks great. Still getting compliments. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 7:40 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Awlgrip is the original paint which is beautiful because it has a color >> and clear coat in the same application. The color settles and the clear >> comes to the surface. This makes for the brilliant, long lasting shine. >> The problem comes when repairs are required. In order to repair a damaged >> area the border between old and nem needs to be feathered in. This creates >> a halo around the damaged area and is caused by the separate layers of >> clear and color. The company insists that only their soap is formulated to >> prevent damaging the finish. They also insist that any amount of >> polishing/buffing/sanding/or waxing will cause damage to the paint, >> subsequently hold dirt and look dull. >> >> Awlgrip has come out with a newer product called Awlgrip 2000 and it >> doesn't have the separate clear and color parts. It isn't quite as >> beautiful when new but it is easier to repair. I'm not sure about >> polishing. >> >> There is a second company which was recommended to me by a boat yard >> called Alex Seal. They said that it looks and works almost exactly like >> Awlgrip 2000 but is cheaper. They pointed to what looked like a new travel >> lift and said they had rebuilt it 5 years ago and that it was a 20 year old >> lift. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > _______________________________________________ > CnC-List mailing list > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
