Re: Stus-List VHB Tape

gerald field via CnC-List Thu, 23 Nov 2017 05:19:59 -0800

Which number VHB tape does the membership suggest is the best type for window 
replacement?Gerald FieldVagabondC&C30Midland ON

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Fixing leaky portlights (M Bodnar)
  2. Re:  Fixing leaky portlights (Della Barba, Joe)
  3.  Experience with exp system epoxy (Doug Welch)

  I re-did my windows using the VHB method this spring. Removing the old 
windows with a sharp putty knife and a hammer was the hardest part. Rough 
repair on the damaged areas with 2 part epoxy.  In retrospect I should have 
painted the blue repair closer to the deck colour since some edges are visible 
under my tinted plexi. Cut the new windows from a full sheet of 3/8" plexi - 
that was a pain.  Jig saw cut the lines easily but I should have had a belt 
sander to straighten out my poor lines.  Router to round over edges.  Then used 
a torch to "polish" the edges. Held the new windows in place and marked the 
inside paper surface.  Removed paper from outer portion that would contact 
hull.  Sprayed black Krylon Fusion plastic paint (couple coats) to help obscure 
the repaired area (glad I did that part as I can see through to the hull on 
certain angles). Put VHB tape on the back of the window.  Got everything 
positioned and used the "masking tape" hinge method recommended by by another 
list member.  Worked very well. My cabin has moderate curve and 2 long windows 
on each side - I didn't even need any bracing to hold the windows in place.  
Once I pressed them on they were NOT moving (so better get the location right 
the first time!).  Followed up with masking off cabin sides around the windows, 
then Dow 745 equivalent to seal around the window rim.  
  Zero leaks since and nice to have clear windows. Mark
   On 2017-11-22 10:17 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

 Scott:

 My boat has two windows on each side as well, and one, the long one has a 
significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in place 
without a frame, screws, bolts etc.  I completed the job 8 years ago and the 
windows still look like new with no issues.

 First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed the 
edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and carefully 
with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus.

 I cleaned the Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a template to 
cut the 4 new windows.

 Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of the 
gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave it as the 
adhesive will take care of it.

 At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and the 
Sika Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the Sika Primer 
and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2 tubes (not all of 
it but I needed some of the second tube).  The Sika 295 UV will not bond 
properly without the Sika Primer.

 The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in the 
cabin sides and draw around the inside so the paper can be cut away where they 
fit into the cabin side.  With sand paper, rough up the new window where they 
will be mounted.

 I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is very 
dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy.  I applied the 
Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as I wanted it to 
ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on the edge of each 
window itself.

 I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each window to 
brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces of wood against 
the window and braced them against the toerail placing a 10 pound rock on each 
piece of wood to ensure it stayed in place.....left the braces on for 48 hours 
to allow sufficient curing time with the moderate Spring temperature.

 I did one window at a time, removing the tape inside and outside, before the 
adhesive started to cure.

 If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address the 
curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape, regardless of 
cost.  While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective, it is more labor 
intensive with the application and it is messy if you are not prepared.

 Several years back I had to replace my car windshield and they used a Sika 
adhesive.....the people that did it said the Sika adhesive they used was 
similar to the one I used except the curing time was a fraction of the 295 UV 
for obvious reasons.....they don't want your vehicle in the shop for 24 to 48 
hours while it cures.

 Maybe the VHB tape and bracing will address your curvature.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 -84
 Halifax, N.S.

 On 2017-11-21 5:59 PM, Scott Baker via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All, I am 
still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to search 
through the archives to find the advice I need. I know this topic has probably 
been exhausted on here, but I need to replace my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII. 
 Some background and my questions: ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but 
they still have a slight curvature in them.  ~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video 
where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape from 3M to install similar portlights. 
(although no curvature) 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
 ~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the curvature 
issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I  brace 
them in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later? Solutions? ~I’m 
afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures because of 
the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear? ~I’ve done enough scoping 
around to learn that everyone seems to have a different opinion of what the 
best material is to make new windows out of. Andy points us towards a specific 
material and source on his website. ~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it 
seems this would make it hard to see in and also hide the flange in case it 
gets mucked up… Yes? ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to 
remove the old windows.  ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make 
the new ones… so therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone 
mastered the removal of  these windows without hacking everything up? ~My boat 
is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I need to wait 
until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old windows and 
cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the spring? Can someone 
point me in the right direction to find all the answers? If there is a trick to 
locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, I’d love to be edumacated! 
Sorry for beating this dead horse. ~Scott Baker

 _______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 _______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

This all makes me glad to have the old versions. I can hand-cut the new 
plexi and no one sees the edges when I am doneJ    Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I     
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of M Bodnar via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2017 9:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: M Bodnar <drbod...@bedfordchiro.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights       I re-did my windows using 
the VHB method this spring. Removing the old windows with a sharp putty knife 
and a hammer was the hardest part. Rough repair on the damaged areas with 2 
part epoxy.  In retrospect I should have painted the blue repair closer to the 
deck colour since some edges are visible under my tinted plexi. Cut the new 
windows from a full sheet of 3/8" plexi - that was a pain.  Jig saw cut the 
lines easily but I should have had a belt sander to straighten out my poor 
lines.  Router to round over edges.  Then used a torch to "polish" the edges. 
Held the new windows in place and marked the inside paper surface.  Removed 
paper from outer portion that would contact hull.  Sprayed black Krylon Fusion 
plastic paint (couple coats) to help obscure the repaired area (glad I did that 
part as I can see through to the hull on certain angles). Put VHB tape on the 
back of the window.  Got everything positioned and used the "masking tape" 
hinge method recommended by by another list member.  Worked very well. My cabin 
has moderate curve and 2 long windows on each side - I didn't even need any 
bracing to hold the windows in place.  Once I pressed them on they were NOT 
moving (so better get the location right the first time!).  Followed up with 
masking off cabin sides around the windows, then Dow 745 equivalent to seal 
around the window rim.  Zero leaks since and nice to have clear windows. Mark   
    On 2017-11-22 10:17 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote: 
Scott:

My boat has two windows on each side as well, and one, the long one has a 
significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in place 
without a frame, screws, bolts etc.  I completed the job 8 years ago and the 
windows still look like new with no issues.

First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed the 
edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and carefully 
with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus.

I cleaned the Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a template to 
cut the 4 new windows.

Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of the 
gelcoat....you can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave it as the 
adhesive will take care of it.

At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and the Sika 
Primer......I can not stress enough the need to include the Sika Primer and it 
is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2 tubes (not all of it but 
I needed some of the second tube).  The Sika 295 UV will not bond properly 
without the Sika Primer.

The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in the 
cabin sides and draw around the inside so the paper can be cut away where they 
fit into the cabin side.  With sand paper, rough up the new window where they 
will be mounted.

I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin......the Sika 295 UV is very 
dirty stuff....you will need a solvent and lots of rags handy.  I applied the 
Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as I wanted it to 
ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on the edge of each 
window itself.

I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each window to 
brace it after applying the adhesive......I put the 3 pieces of wood against 
the window and braced them against the toerail placing a 10 pound rock on each 
piece of wood to ensure it stayed in place.....left the braces on for 48 hours 
to allow sufficient curing time with the moderate Spring temperature.

I did one window at a time, removing the tape inside and outside, before the 
adhesive started to cure.

If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address the 
curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape, regardless of 
cost.  While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective, it is more labor 
intensive with the application and it is messy if you are not prepared.

Several years back I had to replace my car windshield and they used a Sika 
adhesive.....the people that did it said the Sika adhesive they used was 
similar to the one I used except the curing time was a fraction of the 295 UV 
for obvious reasons.....they don't want your vehicle in the shop for 24 to 48 
hours while it cures.

Maybe the VHB tape and bracing will address your curvature.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

 On 2017-11-21 5:59 PM, Scott Baker via CnC-List wrote: 
Hi All, I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how 
to search through the archives to find the advice I need. I know this topic has 
probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace my portlights on my 1987 
35MKIII. Some background and my questions: ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, 
but they still have a slight curvature in them. ~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube 
Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape from 3M to install similar 
portlights. (although no 
curvature)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
 ~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the curvature 
issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace them 
in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later? Solutions? ~I’m afraid 
of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures because of the 
expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear? ~I’ve done enough scoping around 
to learn that everyone seems to have a different opinion of what the best 
material is to make new windows out of. Andy points us towards a specific 
material and source on his website. ~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it 
seems this would make it hard to see in and also hide the flange in case it 
gets mucked up… Yes? ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to 
remove the old windows. ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make 
the new ones… so therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone 
mastered the removal of these windows without hacking everything up? ~My boat 
is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I need to wait 
until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old windows and 
cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the spring? Can someone 
point me in the right direction to find all the answers? If there is a trick to 
locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, I’d love to be edumacated! 
Sorry for beating this dead horse. ~Scott Baker   

 _______________________________________________    Thanks everyone for 
supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly 
appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray    

 _______________________________________________    Thanks everyone for 
supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly 
appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray    
   I am installing a new teak and holly veneer cabin sole on my 33-2 and was 
going to seal it with west system 105/207 until I ran across exp system which 
seem similar but less expensive.  Does anyone have experience with exp system 
they can share? I would like to save some money on the epoxy but not at the 
risk off screwing up the very expensive veneer ($550/sheet):)
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_______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List VHB Tape

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