Hi Russ, 

 

There is an unknown number of inches of air now “trapped” in the system but 
would estimate at least 12” if not more based on the height of the fuel level 
in the tank [and therefore within the pickup tube] plus the fitting on top of 
the tank and whatever length of hose fuel dribbled out of when I disconnected 
the hose from the pickup fitting.  Then there is 9-10 feet of fuel in the hose 
to reach the fuel pump on the engine.  

 

To my knowledge, the engine is not self bleeding.  If it were then just running 
the engine should solve the issue.  Can anyone confirm if that would work? I 
could try to start the engine and let it run on that 9-10’ of fuel but assumed 
once that air bubble reached the engine it would stall out.  Am on land so 
cannot run the engine with a load.  

 

In previous years I have bled the system at the secondary filter and the HP 
pump using the finger lever on the fuel pump, but never needed to bleed the 
injectors.  Reading online seems to indicate that is a 2 person job with one 
pressing the starter button to turn over the engine while the other monitors 
each injector and closes the bleed screw when solid fuel comes out.  Am working 
solo on this and am not sure I could turn the crankshaft by hand with the 
compression valves open, if that would work.  

 

Using the manual pump and cracking open the bleed screw on the secondary fuel 
filter should work, it just will take a while and push that 9-10’ of fuel in 
the hose out onto oil absorb pads and of course all over the side of the 
engine.  Was hoping there was a better [cleaner and faster] way.  

 

Have read about annealing the copper washers [probably on this list years ago] 
but figured Mr Murphy would stop by with his impeccable timing if I tried to do 
that…

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2018 11:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F

 


Hi Brian,

>From your description posted a while ago, you do not have a system full of 
>air. Nor do you have a filter full of air. You have at most a few inches of 
>air in the tank pick-up & hose rune. Is this still the case?

Isn't this Yanmar a self-bleeding version once it's running?

BTW, copper washers as easily annealed using a propane torch. Google for the 
method. Then they are reusable.

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:22 AM 5/6/2018, you wrote:



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Josh, nice videos.  The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this 
process.  May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under 
time pressure to get the boat launched…Â  Â Am still on the hard over an 
hour’s drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time.  
 
Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened multiple times?  Unlike the 
Yanmar copper washers…Â Â  Do you have specific seal washers at McMaster that 
work in the Yanmar fuel system?  Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers 
when replacing the fuel filter housing.  A “professional” mechanic had 
over tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads.  
 
Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes sense; not sure if this 
would force the air past / through the injectors leave the system fully primed. 
 Do not want to cause more problems:  
 
“If your fuel system is now filled with air, I would try the following. 
Engage the decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the 
engine stop, and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will 
pull fuel through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just 
try to start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high 
pressure injector lines and starting will be a problem.”  
 
May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually…Â  
 
Any other suggestions? 
 
Thanks,
Brian
 

 


 
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