It is not hooked up so any instructions would be appreciated. 

Ray. 
> On Jun 12, 2018, at 9:20 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Mast damage (Chuck S)
>   2. Re:  Outhaul replacement, C&C 37/40+ (Chuck S)
>   3. Re:  CNG Gas Stove Instructions (Joe Della Barba)
>   4. Re:  Alternator Charging both banks? (Marek Dziedzic)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2018 20:45:54 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast damage
> Message-ID: <1971254731.984963.1528850754...@connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The dent seems awfully small to me and sounds cosmetic.
> I doubt a dent with a depth of 3mm counts for much. That's about an 1/8". The 
> mast wall is probably that thick. And the size of 5cm (2") by 3cm (1 3/16") 
> seems very superficial. Several feet above the gooseneck. If there aren't too 
> many halyard exits nearby, I'd sail with it as-is or fill and fair it using 
> West System. Another option: drill a 1/2" hole in the opposite side of the 
> mast and get a nice strong steel punch, grind the tip into a nice rounded 
> blunt end and peen out the dent from inside. Fill and fair.
> 
> Then finish off with a BoatUS sticker. Go sailing.
> 
> FWIW, I once bought a brand new Cape Dory 22 in 1981 and it was delivered to 
> the dealer with a dented mast. The dent was three times what you described. 
> Demand for the model was high and I was told I could wait six weeks for the 
> next one, but I went ahead and signed papers and took delivery the next week. 
> We had a blast with that boat for five years and drove her hard, sometimes 
> underwater offshore, (she was only 22 feet long) and never ever had a worry 
> about the mast. We saw that dent just above the jib halyard winch every time 
> we raised the headsail, but never questioned the integrity of the rig. I sold 
> the boat and the new owner drove her even harder off the coast of Maine and 
> loved her and wrote me a nice thankyou letter never once asked about the dent 
> that was as big as your hand.
> 
>> On June 12, 2018 at 2:30 PM M Bodnar via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Discovered over the weekend that my mast blew off the rack at the boat
>> yard over the winter.  Landed on a lower level rack and dented the side
>> of my mast - several feet above the gooseneck. Dent is maybe 5cm long
>> and 3cm wide - max depth of about 3mm.
>> 
>> Met with insurance surveyor today - he is suggesting a few options -
>> weld aluminum to the side of the mast, cut mast and install a sleeve,
>> find a used CS 30 mast or similar and replace or replace with a new
>> mast.  Apparently the sleeve option would cause a stiff spot in the mast
>> and make it harder to trim well for racing (which I don't do - but don't
>> want to devalue the boat in the repair).  Not sure about the weld
>> option.  No immediately available used CS 30 masts locally.
>> 
>> Insurance has a set upper limit of $22500 on the boat - so write off is
>> a possibility if they can't repair or find a used option.
>> 
>> Anyone have any experience? Advice? Know of any random CS 30 masts lying
>> around???
>> 
>> 
>> Mark
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2018 21:31:11 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Outhaul replacement, C&C 37/40+
> Message-ID: <2134120928.986458.1528853471...@connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> FWIW, The outhaul on my 1989 34R is 1/8" SS wire about eight feet long, 
> thimble both ends and in good shape. Inside the boom is a four to one 
> purchase made of two fiddle blocks for 7/16" StaSet that exits at the 
> gooseneck and comes back to the clutches and winches. I rarely need the winch 
> to tension this line, and I think it's OEM.
> 
> 
>> On June 12, 2018 at 6:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>    I replaced the sheaves with ones made by zepherwerks.  They were made for 
>> 1/2 but I only run 3/8th.  I'd go smaller but the hand and the winches 
>> complain.  I no longer have any wire rope on board.
>> 
>>    Josh Muckley
>>    S/V Sea Hawk
>>    1989 C&C 37+
>>    Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>    On Tue, Jun 12, 2018, 4:59 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>> 
>>>>        Thanks Josh!
>>> 
>>>        Quick related question.  The existing line appears to be 7/16 
>>> leading to 1/8 wire somewhere in the boom.  Did you change out the sheive, 
>>> and/or will 7/16 line fit?  It seems like it might as my reef lines are 
>>> 7/16.
>>> 
>>>        Thanks for all your insights,
>>> 
>>>        Bruce Whitmore 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>        Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>> 
>>>        -------- Original message --------
>>>        From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
>>>        Date: 6/11/18 10:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
>>>        To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
>>>        Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com mailto:muckl...@gmail.com >
>>>        Subject: Re: Stus-List Outhaul replacement, C&C 37/40+
>>> 
>>>        Bruce,
>>> 
>>>        I did a core to core eye splice which I simply attach to the 
>>> d-shackle which you have shown in the picture.  I attach it to the D not 
>>> the pin effectively keeping the clew and the eye of the outhaul tied 
>>> together.  You could also use an additional soft shackle to directly attach 
>>> the eye to the clew.
>>> 
>>>        While you are at it you might consider adding a purchase system to 
>>> your outhaul.  I added a 4:1 internal to the boom and now I can adjust the 
>>> outhaul under almost all wind conditions.  I also added a 2:1 to the first 
>>> reef.  It is amazing how much easier it is to make adjustments and reef.  I 
>>> didn't have enough boom length to accommodate any form of purchase on the 
>>> 2nd reef but since there is so much less sail it doesn't make too much 
>>> difference.  In order to create a fixed point for my purchase systems I 
>>> worked with a local fab shop to make a becket for the triple turning block 
>>> in the mast end of the boom.  You can see the block in the link below but 
>>> the picture is prior to the addition of the becket.
>>> 
>>>        
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydWx5N3FISk5JWUU/view?usp=drivesdk
>>> 
>>>        Josh Muckley 
>>>        S/V Sea Hawk 
>>>        1989 C&C 37+
>>>        Solomons, MD 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>        On Mon, Jun 11, 2018, 10:07 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>>> 
>>>>>>            Hello all,
>>>> 
>>>>            Our outhaul is faded and ready for replacement.  Currently, it 
>>>> is comprised of Sta-Set braided to wire, and the wire is then formed 
>>>> around a small thimble as it attaches to a car in the slot on the boom.  A 
>>>> photo can be found here:  Outhaul.jpg. 
>>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pdejeakqehyl885/Outhaul.jpg?dl=0
>>>> 
>>>>            Outhaul.jpg
>>>> 
>>>>            Shared with Dropbox 
>>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pdejeakqehyl885/Outhaul.jpg?dl=0
>>>> 
>>>>            I'd like to just go with a decent line and avoid the whole 
>>>> splice, thimble & nicopress fitting idea.  I should have enough room for a 
>>>> simple knot and still have enough travel.  But, I need to convert the 
>>>> attachment to the sliding car.  I'm thinking, however, that if I tie a 3/8 
>>>> or 7/16" line to a larger shackle, it may apply too much sideways pull on 
>>>> the hole in the car.    Has anyone else dealt with this on a C&C 37/40+ 
>>>> with a similar boom & wire rope setup? 
>>>> 
>>>>            By the way, I really like the Novabraid Argus or NE Ropes VPC 
>>>> due to the "nubby" cover that grabs nicely in my clutches.  The current 
>>>> clutch slips slightly on my very old and tired outhaul, but I'm not sure a 
>>>> Argus or VPC to wire braid is either possible or even desirable.
>>>> 
>>>>            Thanks for the advice!
>>>> 
>>>>            Bruce Whitmore
>>>>            1994 C&C 37/40+
>>>>            Madeira Beach, FL
>>>>            (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>>>            bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>>>            _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>>>            Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
>>>> contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to 
>>>> support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
>>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>>>        _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>>        Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
>>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
>>> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> 
>>>>    _______________________________________________
>> 
>>    Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2018 21:49:19 -0400
> From: Joe Della Barba <j...@dellabarba.com>
> To: Ray Macklin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions
> Message-ID: <58186e0b-4d7b-5a5b-cbba-0d7627f77...@dellabarba.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Is it all hooked up or are you looking for instructions for that?
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
> 
>> On 6/12/2018 6:46 PM, Ray Macklin via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hello
>> I have a 1985 C&C 33 that has a CNG gas stove   I had the tank refilled but 
>> since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions. I 
>> would hate to Go kaboom. Does anyone have instructions or a video of how to 
>> use it?  Then I could eat breakfast on the boat.
>> 
>> Hopeful
>> Ray
>> LakeHouse
>> Milwaukee WI.
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 02:19:26 +0000
> From: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Charging both banks?
> Message-ID:
>    
> <dm3pr11mb09715752d99b97e710ed09e9ce...@dm3pr11mb0971.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I am with Dennis on that.
> 
> If you spend a lot of time at anchor, you may need a large house bank and a 
> dedicated (smaller) starter battery. Then an Echo Charger or ACR between the 
> House and Start and all charging going to House.
> 
> But what Dennis describes is an easy and straight forward system.
> 
> I do use it, though I don?t spend much time at anchor.
> 
> Marek
> 
> From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 19:08
> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Charging both banks?
> 
> I do not like using the "Both" option for selector switches.  If one battery 
> dies, then it will drag the other battery down and you'll be stuck.
> 
> For many years, I had two identical batteries on Touche'.  My simple system 
> was to use Battery 1 on odd numbered days and Battery 2 on even numbered 
> days, never "Both".  That ensured I always had one hot battery.
> 
> You can get complicated with ACR's, etc. or a large house bank and dedicated 
> start battery but the system I described above is simple and effective.
> 
> The alternator should charge whichever battery is selected.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 5:09 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Do you guys know if the alternator charges all the batteries all the time?
> 
> I was under the impression that the selector switch effectively directed all 
> the current from the battery banks including charging from the alternator and 
> I usually run on "both" to make sure all the batteries get exercised.  Now 
> that I might be looking for a new charger (Different story) and I'm looking 
> into this charging thing deeper / I'm reading on the web that the alternator 
> might actually be charging both all the time regardless of the switch 
> position?
> 
> We mostly daysail and don't require much from the batteries so I thought it 
> would be a good idea to have them all involved both in charging and 
> discharging so I typically use the "Both" option on the switch.
> 
> Now I'm thinking I should maybe just use position 1 except when at anchor or 
> for extended night cruises?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
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