I used Epiphanes Gloss on Touche' in 1999.  Haven't touched it since.
Still get compliments.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 5:30 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:

> I'll second using Epiphanes Varnish. I built up mine with the following: a
> coat or two of Pettit Clear Sealer (you can hot coat it), then build with
> Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss, which can be applied without sanding between
> coats up to three days apart. After about 6 coats I let it dry for a week
> and give it a good sanding to smooth over the grain. Then I use regular
> Epiphanes Gloss for a few more coats. I give a quick scuff with a green
> scotchbrite pad between coats. I wipe down with a damp cloth, then one
> dampened with alcohol, then a good wipe with a tack rag. If you want a
> satin finish, the last coat can be Epiphanes rubbed effect, which is very
> easy to work with. I always finish with Gloss, though, as it wears better.
> I checked with some of my West Indian friends, who are varnish experts, to
> see if they go for anything different these days but got the same answer.
>
> Andy
> Formerly C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA    02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Jun 26, 2018, at 18:08, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> FYI, I am starting to learn more about the cabin teak on our 1994 C&C
> 37/40+.  I noticed when we bought the boat that the interior looked much
> more "blonde" color than other teak interiors.  In addition, there are a
> number of areas where the wood shows light water stains.  The finish itself
> allows the grain to be both felt and seen.  After trying varnish in a few
> inconspicous places, I noticed it darkened the color to a traditional teak
> look.  Beautiful, but getting everything that color was going to involve a
> major redo of the entire interior.  I then tried traditional danish oil.
> This time, I could see and feel the grain as was the case with the rest of
> the boat, but again it darkened the wood (but not as much as the varnish).
>
> Then, I tried lacquer.  It did not darken the wood, and I also (finally!)
> figured out that I could remove the old Lacquer finish with a 50/50 mix of
> lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol.
>
> So, for those of you who have the lighter finished interior, try lacquer.
> It sits on top of the teak and does not penetrate deeply, thus not
> darkening the wood.  And, you can test if it is lacquer that needs to be
> removed by trying the thinner/alcohol approach.
>
> Food for thought,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> [email protected]
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <[email protected]>
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Cc:* [email protected]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 26, 2018 4:40 PM
> *Subject:* Stus-List Cleaning cabin teak prior to varnish application
>
> Have decided to bite the bullet and brighten up my cabins by cleaning up
> the teak which has only ever been oiled—and not really that often!
> I am leaning toward using the spray on stuff from Clorox similar to
> ‘scrubbing bubbles’ to clean and remove what little oil/dirt remains before
> applying a polyurethane based ‘varnish’.
> This is a big job on my 1995 36’ XL/kcb—there are 3 cabins and several
> bulkheads and doors to do so I cannot obsess over the cleaning or the
> varnish application.
> The list has mentioned solutions with TSP, etc. but unless there are
> likely to be problems with my Clorox stuff, I prefer this premixed.
> Also what polyurethane varnish is considered the best looking with the
> fewest number of coats.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
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