this is as much as I know right now.

The house and start are completely separate.  Even separate switches.  the start battery has its own on/off switch But, then the 3 house batteries are separated into a off/1/both/2 switch. two batteries on 2 and one batter on 1.  I was thinking the regulator would prioritize the start battery then send the current to the house when the start was satisfied.  I was wondering if the start battery never got satisfied would the regulator never send the current to the house bank?


On 7/16/2018 9:48 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
Also depends on which battery is supposed to be the first one charged.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

    I don't know what type of setup you have regarding the house and
    starting battery.  Is it a switch, acr, or echo-charge?  Depending
    on the answer, yes a failed start battery could affect the entire
    system.

    Josh Muckley
    S/V Sea Hawk
    1989 C&C 37+
    Solomons, MD



    On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 8:20 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
    <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

        well, the battery was showing 12.7 by the time I got it back
        to the boat.  It would not start the engine.  I did jump start
        it and found the alternator was putting out 14.4 volts.  So I
        ran out and bought an interstate starting battery.  I
        installed that, started the engine and got 14.4 volts at the
        battery terminals with the engine running.  Then, I went sailing!

        Anyway, my question now is, if the starting battery was not
        taking the charge, would the alternator just keep trying to
        charge the starting battery and never reach a full charge so
        never send anything to the house?  In essence, the spent
        battery was the break in the system like a bucket with a big
        hole in it?


        On 7/15/2018 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
        Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again.

        Josh



        On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
        <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

            12.9 reading with charger off.  It's a smart charger and
            will slow and then stop charge as battery charges.  It is
            sitting with charger attached just reading voltage



            Thanks,
            Danny
            -------- Original message --------
            From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
            <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
            Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
            To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
            Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com
            <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
            Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

            12.9v on or off the charger?  That's too low if on the
            charger.  Even the smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v

            It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad,
            reducing the battery's appropriate full charge voltage to
            10.6 instead of 12.7  the charger is dumb and keeps
            trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery.  This
            extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils off
            electrolyte.  Under this condition the battery voltage
            may never get to 14.7 but it can easily get to 12.7.  It
            will quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when the
            charger is removed.  This may take a few hours to occur. 
            If/When a load is applied the voltage will drop
            dramatically and stabilize near 10.6v.  If this is the
            case then you need a new battery.

            Josh Muckley
            S/V Sea Hawk
            1989 C&C 37+
            Solomons, MD




            On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
            <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

                 Hi Rick,
                Thank you for the insight.  The start battery showed
                just 12.1 when I put it on the charger.  I just went
                out and battery now shows full at 12.9 volts.

                It seems like the charge isn't getting to the
                batteries.  This is one system I haven't dug into
                yet.  I guess that's going to change...

                I think I need to find a diagram somewhere



                Thanks,
                Danny

                -------- Original message --------
                From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
                <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
                Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
                To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
                Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net
                <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
                Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

                Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts
                when the engine is running, the alternator is
                probably OK.

                When you say the start battery is not charging, is it
                safe to assume that the start battery will not start
                the engine?

                Under normal circumstances, and depending on the
                Amp-Hour capacity of the start battery, it will
                probably never get below 95% to 99% state of charge.
                (Unless, of course, you are using it to also power
                your house loads.)

                For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175
                amps for about 30 seconds in starting, or about 1.4
                AH. That is about 1.3% discharge on the 105AH deep
                cycle battery I use for starting. (And only for
                starting except in an emergency)

                So the start battery is capable of reaching full
                charge in just a few minutes of engine run time, and
                the full output from the alternator then gets
                directed to the house bank if that is at a lower
                state of charge. If both are fully charged, the
                current flow just creates heat.

                Check your start battery with a volt meter and both
                engine and battery switch turned off. If you get 12.6
                volts or more, everything is probably OK.

                If the start battery won’t start the motor, you
                probably need a new battery.

                Rick Brass

                Washington, NC

                *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
                <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of
                *Danny Haughey via CnC-List
                *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 7:31 PM
                *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
                <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
                *Cc:* Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com
                <mailto:djhaug...@juno.com>>
                *Subject:* Stus-List Charging issues

                So my gauge shows 14amps while motoring but after a
                long motoring trip my starting battery and house
                batteries are not charging.  The house batteries
                charge under shore power.

                I'm taking the starting battery home to throw on a
                charger to see if it will take a charge.  If oin l
                I'm seeing the 14 amps can I assume the alternator is
                working?

                Thanks,

                Danny

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301 541 8551


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