Alan

I have the book.  To the best of my knowledge I have three ground bus bars.  
One behind the electrical panel, engine block and one in the V berth.  I 
installed the v- berth one when I installed the windlass.  The windlass grounds 
directly to the battery, however I also installed a wash down pump and 
macerator pump that are grounded to a bus bar and the that grounds to the 
windlass ground in the v-berth.  Sounds contrary to what you said.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2018, at 12:53 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike:
> 
> A good book for you is Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical 
> Manual".  In the book, it says:  "All equipment should have an insulated 
> ground that leads back to a central ground bus bar in the main distribution 
> panel, which in turn leads to a common ground point or bus." In other words, 
> don't connect one ground to another, and then to the ground bus.  Each piece 
> of equipment must have it's own ground going to the ground bus.
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 4:25 PM, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> Hi Alan
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost 
>> never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge 
>> the batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed, every 
>> 6 to 8 weeks
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the 
>> start battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that 
>> as an issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.  
>> Next I took the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the 
>> same.  Next I disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside 
>> and checked for voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25 
>> V.  I removed the positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw 
>> voltage. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might be 
>> creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist 
>> out there.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> C&C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
>> Persuasion
>> Stormont Yacht Club
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
>> Sent: August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
>> To: C&C
>> Cc: ALAN BERGEN
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're 
>> cheaper than magnesium.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC 
>> line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter 
>> should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be 
>> pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a 
>> return path, other than through the AC supply line.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> 
>> Rose City YC
>> 
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Bob
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and 
>> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I 
>> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike 
>> 
>> 
>> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
>> type of water your boats in?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> 
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>> 
>> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> 
>> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>> Annapolis, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hey folks
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion 
>> or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, 
>> ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and 
>> through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind 
>> generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  
>> Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled 
>> out to do the centre board.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
>> methodically and what I should look for.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks in advance
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> PERSUASION
>> 
>> C&C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
>> 
>> Long Sault
>> 
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