Thanks Dennis, I thought it through and I agree that grinding away the existing tabs on the aft side is probably my best option because If I were to try to preserve the tabbing and only cut out some of the aft skin to replace the core I won't be able to fit the new core I build into this tight space as one solid piece. Plus it would be very difficult to clean out and grind clean where the old core has to come out.
The Chain Plate itself is on the bow side, therefore the higher forces are there as well. I want the core solid and well bonded to help re-inforce it. I'll probably keep the skin that I cut away, clean it up, and glass it back in afterwards as, like you say, using the bolts to hold it all together will distribute the pressure while it cures. Thanks for the fillets tip - I will definitely do that. I'm going to talk to Paul (our local glass expert) before I do anything just to get his two cents but I'm fairly confident this will work. I helped out with another boat where chainplates were being glassed directly into the hull with fresh glass and it's amazingly strong. If done properly, the tabs shouldn't fail. John, my YouTube channel is: http://www.youtube.com/sailingbalachandra The boat is called Breakaweigh. I called the channel by a different name for security reasons. Dan Breakaweigh C&C44 Halifax, NS On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 9:36 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Dan, > > You may know all this but here's my 2 cents. > > If you cut the aft skin close to the hull, be sure to create some nice > radius fillets for the tabbing. Stronger and won't create a stress load > like a perpendicular tab joint. > > When I tab bulkheads, I grind/sand to fresh glass (I think you got that) > then coat it with neat epoxy to ensure a good bond. Then I mix some > thickened epoxy, apply it in the joint and create the radiused fillet with > the backside of a plastic spoon. Let it cure and lay the tab tape on the > fillet. > > Whatever you chose to use for the core, wood or G10, bond it to the > forward skin. Prep then coat the forward skin with neat epoxy. Use a > notched trowel to apply thickened epoxy to BOTH the forward skin and the > core. If you use slow hardener you can replace the aft skin and use the > chain plate bolts to hold it while curing. > > I've done several similar jobs, if you have any questions, feel free to > ask. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 7:21 AM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Thanks for the feedback guys. >> Ok so now that I know that new tabbing onto bare glass with epoxy is ok >> as long as I grind it first - it will be strong enough. I was planning to >> go with plywood, isolating the bolts and access holes with solid glass so >> it doesn’t get wet again. (I’ll look into FRP. Carbon Fiber would be >> amazing.)Also I was planning to add a 1/2 in. Drain hole at the bottom. >> Once the headstay is removed I’m going to completely disassemble the >> chainplate and inspect it (installed in 2002)- I have to in order to do the >> work. The rusty looking area is just staining- the SS will shine with some >> scrubbing. >> >> Thanks guys! >> I’ll probably record the whole job and post it to my YouTube channel. >> >> Dan >> Breakaweigh >> C&C44 >> Halifax, NS >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jan 30, 2019, at 8:21 AM, robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote: >> >> Dan: >> >> From looking at your pictures, I would be concerned about the integrity >> of that bulkhead. I can see five (5) bolts in the chain plate....top 2 >> look, bottom 2 not good, middle one not sure. >> >> I would definitely cut out the rot and re-glass....question is, are you >> going to remove the chain plate? >> >> Rob Abbott >> AZURA >> C&C 32- #277 >> Halifax, N.S. >> >> On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote: >> >> I need the collective wisdom on this one. >> >> Pictures here: >> IMG_6750.JPG >> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1znDiTdnSAfj89gETGSYAzGlTGPaJPGLM/view?usp=drive_web> >> >> IMG_6747.JPG >> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A8ykQQMEgWAVr-Y3Dd5oxvPRXd_tMdMX/view?usp=drive_web> >> >> On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate >> for the headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified >> over the years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when >> drain holes were drilled and such and now the core material inside the >> bulkhead is nearly disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back >> fiberglass layer, each about 1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull. >> >> This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into >> the exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in >> something stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull. >> >> Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then >> re-glassing one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the >> new tabs be strong enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good >> quality glass and epoxy) >> >> Thanks guys, >> >> Dan >> Breakaweigh >> C&C44 >> Halifax, NS >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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