This is the best I could find: http://productimageserver.com/literature/ownersManual/35883OM.pdf
Ken H. On Thu, 16 May 2019 at 21:09, bwhitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > Ken, that makes total sense into me. Now if I can find the coolant hoses! > > I'm really surprised I can't find good installation instructions! > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Date: 5/16/19 6:37 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Purging air from Attwood EHM6-SM Water Heater > > I think you have the following ports visible in your photo: > > H = Hot Potable Water out of Heater to your hot water taps. > C = Cold Potable Water into heater from the potable water pump. > D = Drain for emptying the Heater of Potable Water for winterizing. > P1 = Pressure Release Valve for an over-pressure condition caused by the > electric element sticking on and boiling the contents of the Heater. > > > If you also have in and out for Coolant so the engine can heat the water > they must be out of sight on the rear? > > What Josh said about using the Pressure Relief Valve will bleed air our of > the Potable Water section. It won't bleed the coolant loop from the engine. > > Ken H. > > On Thu, 16 May 2019 at 18:29, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hello all, >> >> I think I probably have some air trapped in my hot water heater. I have >> found some pretty cryptic instructions for the heater, but: >> >> a). They do not include a good drawing or explanation of how the hoses, >> either fresh water or coolant should be connected (yes I have looked for >> better online instructions to no avail) >> b). They say "Bleed air from the entire coolant system for proper >> operation of both engine and water heater", but don't give instructions as >> to the best way to do it. >> c). They do not include a listing of the what the stamped letters next to >> the outlets mean. (the upper left in the photo is "H", bottom left is "D", >> upper right is "P1" and lower right is "C" >> >> Here's a photo of the water heater: Attwood EHM6-SM Water Heater.j >> <https://www.dropbox.com/s/zknhmh77qlh7ks6/Attwood%20EHM6-SM%20Water%20Heater.jpg?dl=0> >> >> The tube in the upper left feeds the boat with hot water. I think the >> tube on the bottom with the valve on it comes from the engine hot water >> feed. I turned off the valve, and the hot water continued to run, so it is >> definitely not the fresh water supply line to the heater. And, having a >> valve on the hot coolant input line would make sense. Therefore, am I >> correct in thinking the pipe on the lower right would be the return coolant >> line to the engine? >> >> Now for conundrum #2. >> >> Here's a photo of the hoses leading out of the engine. Hot water heater >> hoses at engine.jpg. >> <https://www.dropbox.com/s/24pbeb82hakwxvd/Hot%20water%20heater%20hoses%20at%20engine.jpg?dl=0> >> Those hoses connect to the grey solid pipes shown in the previous picture, >> somewhere under the floorboards where I can't see which is which. They >> were disconnected, but filled with coolant when I got the boat, so I was >> just guessing when I connected the hoses to the engine. In looking at the >> Yanmar manual, it appears the red hose should be the suction side coming >> from the water heater, and the black hose would be the pressure (hot) water >> coming from the engine to the water heater. Am I correct? >> >> Any way about it, since the water going down to the heater must flow down >> under the floorboards, up to the heater, then out of the heater and back >> down under the floorboards, the water heater would be a prime spot for air >> to get trapped. >> >> So, I am thinking I should ease off the connection coming off the lower >> right side of the heater and apply pressure to the appropriate hose coming >> off the engine, and see if I get any air out. Then, I want to ensure I am >> connecting the correct hose to the right inlet/outlet point on the engine. >> Does this make sense? >> >> Thanks for your insights! >> >> Bruce Whitmore >> >> (847) 404-5092 (mobile) >> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >>
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