thanks you. Ok, I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly. if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean: follow the batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin with. Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery banks come to the main ground bus? I'm really a rookie with electrical stuff so be specific if you can.
Wade Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Agreed, sounds like a bad ground. Voltage is one thing; but enough > current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be > adversely affected by bad ground continuity. > > — Fred > > Fred Street -- Minneapolis > S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > > On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Clean all the ground connections. > > Dennis C. > > On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hello listers, I would appreciate any advice you might have on my >> electrical issue du jour. >> >> Mine is a C&C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system. >> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V deep cycles about 5 years >> old. Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005. I look after my >> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally. I >> have a True Charge 40 battery charger. One morning after several days out >> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music >> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start. >> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power. I had the Master Switch >> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical >> activity on the boat stopped working altogether. Prior to switching to Bat >> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on >> battery remaining at 225 hours. I put a portable battery pack onto my >> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery. However, powering up >> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start >> the engine. >> >> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new >> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery. I charged by shore power overnight then >> left for a few more days on the water. >> >> Now, the current circumstance is this. >> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1, I see normal >> charging voltages to both battery banks. >> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to >> both batteries. >> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are >> resting at about 12.5 V. Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link >> 20. When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery >> power. The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1 >> or ALL and won't start. If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V >> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops. If I put the portable >> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position, >> the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too >> slowly. >> >> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the >> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat. I would >> appreciate any suggestions >> >> Wade >> Oh Boy, C&C 33 MK II >> > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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