Also interested in where the heck you put the batteries - like Michael, I 
stopped with 2x group 31 plus a start battery.  I think I could cut out the 
existing battery shelf and maybe gain a few more amp hours with an 
incrementally larger footprint/height but that’s it.

Agreed on some of the other points for sure - battery management strategy is 
documented in the link I sent previously.

Windstar 33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 15, 2019, at 10:47 AM, Catherine & Michael . 
> <> wrote:
> We recently updated the 12V system on our 33-2 this year.  We reached out to 
> an ABYC marine electrician for advice about our plan.
> I won't re-hash other thoughts in the previous emails, but my two cents:
> - Connections are often an issue and the first place to look. Connections may 
> visually appear in good condition, but a loose connection can be an issue. 
> - House and starter battery should never be able to see each other. A large 
> house bank at 60% charge connected to a fully charged starting battery can 
> draw a lot of current over the circuit from of the starting battery to the 
> house and make it difficult to start... Our electrician recommended we put a 
> battery management panel in place with two battery switches so the two 
> batteries remain independent and if the starter battery dies, we could adjust 
> the switch to start using the house isolating the starting battery from the 
> circuit completely.  
> - Our starting battery gets charge via a Xantrex Echo Charge and all of our 
> charging inputs go directly to the house (solar, battery charger, alternator, 
> etc).  This again is to make sure the house and starting batteries are 
> isolated and the most amount of energy can be put into the largest battery 
> bank. 
> One thing I would like to know is how you got the 4-Trojan's in place... We 
> looked at changing our battery arrangement and decided it was too hard so our 
> house is 2-G31 batteries with an isolated G24 starting battery.  One big plus 
> of this change is that the engine fires up on the first go where it used to 
> take 2-3 tries to get her going when cold. 
> Cheers,
> Michael Egberts 
> Big Lou - C&C 33-2
>> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 9:33 AM Dave S via CnC-List <> 
>> wrote:
>> Good luck with the troubleshooting.  
>> Can’t recall if I responded with this but some 33-2 electrical info and 
>> photos here
>> Dave 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> On Aug 14, 2019, at 8:46 AM, Wade Glew <> wrote:
>>> thank you to all who responded to my email.  I wont be back to the boat for 
>>> a couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and 
>>> suggestions of a plan to go forwards.  Thanks again, will let you know how 
>>> it goes
>>> Wade 
>>> Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II
>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List 
>>>> <> wrote:
>>>> My 2 cents. 
>>>> Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad 
>>>> connection, likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal 
>>>> house circuits cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another 
>>>> bad connection but the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop 
>>>> the voltage enough that things stop working but the start current drops 
>>>> the voltage to much. It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with 
>>>> low amps there is less voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the 
>>>> current and you produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm 
>>>> resistance and your gonna drop 6V.  Put a voltmeter there with no load it 
>>>> will read 12V. 
>>>> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at 
>>>> the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the 
>>>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the 
>>>> issue is in the hot path. 
>>>>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>>>>> From: Jeff Helsdingen <>
>>>>> To:
>>>>> Cc: 
>>>>> Bcc: 
>>>>> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
>>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
>>>>> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all 
>>>>> the ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery 
>>>>> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" 
>>>>> problem I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem 
>>>>> as well but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added 
>>>>> can suddenly become undersized quickly too.
>>>>> Jeff Helsdingen
>>>>> Caposhi
>>>>> C&C 35 mk 1 #54
>>>>> Port Stanley On.
>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>>>>> <> wrote:
>>>>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough 
>>>>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be 
>>>>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>>>> — Fred
>>>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>>>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>>>>> <> wrote:
>>>>>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>>>>> Dennis C.
>>>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>>>>>>>> <> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my 
>>>>>>>> electrical issue du jour.  
>>>>>>>> Mine is a C&C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system. 
>>>>>>>>  Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 
>>>>>>>> years old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after 
>>>>>>>> my batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating 
>>>>>>>> normally.  I have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning 
>>>>>>>> after several days out sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the 
>>>>>>>> fridge and lots of music playing) and running the engine very little, 
>>>>>>>> the engine would not start.  Starter turned slow, felt like no battery 
>>>>>>>> power.  I had the Master Switch on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 
>>>>>>>> 2 at which point all 12V electrical activity on the boat stopped 
>>>>>>>> working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat 2, the Link 20 showed 
>>>>>>>> my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on battery remaining 
>>>>>>>> at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my starter battery 
>>>>>>>> and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up the battery 
>>>>>>>> pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start the 
>>>>>>>> engine.  
>>>>>>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand 
>>>>>>>> new 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power 
>>>>>>>> overnight then left for a few more days on the water. 
>>>>>>>> Now, the current circumstance is this.  
>>>>>>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see 
>>>>>>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.  
>>>>>>>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to 
>>>>>>>> both batteries.   
>>>>>>>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are 
>>>>>>>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the 
>>>>>>>> Link 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have 
>>>>>>>> low battery power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch 
>>>>>>>> to either Bat 1 or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 
>>>>>>>> 2, all 12V electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put 
>>>>>>>> the portable battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in 
>>>>>>>> the ALL position, the engine will go however, it still feels like the 
>>>>>>>> starter is turning too slowly.  
>>>>>>>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the 
>>>>>>>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I 
>>>>>>>> would appreciate any suggestions
>>>>>>>> Wade
>>>>>>>> Oh Boy, C&C 33 MK II
>>>> _______________________________________________
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