I used 3/8 (10mm).

Found a similar hard epoxy was used from the original build,  which I removed 
and frame cleaned up back to fibreglass, using finger sander and ΒΌ sheet 
sander, and dremmel

Then used Sikalfex 295, with their thinner and cleaner.

Make up 3 external guides to push the window to the curve in the frame. 

They pushed against the genoa track and the shroud turnbuckle bases.

Once set it is better than new.

Make sure that you allow lots of gap at the ends of the new windows to allow 
for the thermal expansion difference between plexi and fibreglass. 

295 stays flexible and will allow movement yet keep the seal.

Did my Stbd windows last winter and will complete the port ones this winter.

 

Remember to get enough 295 to satisfy the formula;

1 tube for the work + 1 tube to get on everythingandeveryonewithin a 3m radius 
= 2 tubes

 

John

LF 38 #234

Echoes

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: November-16-19 1:54 PM
To: [email protected]
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thickness of acrylic cabin windows on LF38?

 

If you had bolts through the windows, that's not a factory method corroborating 
your idea they were probably replaced at some point.  

FWIW, My 34R windows are 1/4" think.  I wanted to go thicker but got the new 
material cut the same as the original thickness to bend the easier and to match 
original specifications.  Glad I did.  The material is very stiff.  Haven't 
started yet. 

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, Pasadena Md 

    

On November 15, 2019 at 9:22 PM Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
<[email protected]> wrote: 

Thanks for the replies, sounds like I can use either 3/8" or 1/4". I'm going 
with 3/8" (9mm) for the extra strength and so it will be flush with the 
exterior hull surface. The actual sizes from Acrylite are in mm, I just 
measured in inches out of habit.  

 

I have one window pulled now (it came out quite easily, fortunately, after 
thrubolts were removed). The prep / cleanup looks like it's going to take a 
long time, as expected but maybe a bit worse than expected. This plexus stuff 
is a *pain*.  

 

On the surface closest to the old window was a black rubbery sealant, which 
comes off easily, but below that is some kind of black / brown hard epoxy. From 
prior threads ( 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2015-February/073099.html ) 
I understand this is a methacrylate adhesive, aka Plexus (the brand name). 
Robert H in the prior thread decided to just fair over it, which I may have to 
do as well in some places.  

 

Another thread that discusses the Plexus headache is by Gary Russell -  
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2015-December/080369.html 

His experience was a bit different though (he had a very hard time separating 
the old acrylic from the Plexus), which makes me think maybe our windows have 
been previously replaced, and a sealant was used on top of the Plexus. It 
sounds like he used a router or RotoZip to cut off the plexus. 

 

We shall see (this will take a while).  

 

-Patrick 

 

 

 

_______________________________________________ 

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 


  

_______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Reply via email to