Yeah... They are ALL blunt instruments.
-Go/no go
The moisture meters can indicate high for perfectly good tanks on the other
side of the hull.  Tabbing can also throw off the readings.  When I bought
my boat the PO had had a dock box stored on the deck.  Rain and dew had
kept that area damp.  Despite moving the box and seeing no visible signs of
moisture the area still indicated high in a perfect footprint of the box.
I also had an area of solid fiberglass which had a hole cut into the
vertical ledge for a latch.  The hole allowed rain water and sea spray to
trickle in and cling to the bottom of the fiberglass panel.  This ended up
indicating high moisture on the meter too.  For both of these areas a quick
tap-tap-tap as well as a visual investigation of the panel design and layup
revealed no problems.

Solid fiberglass isn't going to be a problem.

Undisturbed sections of cored deck or hull are not going to be a problem.

Water enters the core where damage or modifications have disturbed the
resin seal which "was" protecting the core.  That's where moisture meters
and FLiR help draw your focus.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Feb 19, 2020, 23:25 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:

> I bought a cheapish Klein moisture meter from Amazon this morning and it
> was delivered this evening for $39. What I am hearing is that 50% think
> this approach is good enough to discover problems and 50% think it's
> worthless. I'll let you know. The Flir approach is interesting but sounds
> like a blunt metric as it measures temperature gradient in lieu of moisture
> content.
> I appreciate everyone's input. Thank you
>
> On Wed, Feb 19, 2020, 5:37 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>> That's really good information Charlies, and after reading Josh's post,
>> it reminded me to just go tap on the deck where necessary.
>>
>> I was, however, thinking about our cockpit area which for some magical
>> reason had teak installed.  I'm not really looking forward to stripping it
>> all off and sealing the holes.  I'd really like to know before I tackle the
>> job if there is water in the core of the cockpit deck or seats that is
>> going to need remediation.  Those areas under the teak decking I don't
>> think will sound out differently, and there is no access to the backside
>> for tapping with a hammer.
>>
>> Great thoughts though!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> [email protected]
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
_______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Reply via email to