> IIRC, my yard used two layers of biaxial 1708 cloth on our keel joint. First > they ground a shallow tapered valley about 6 inches into the lead and 6 > inches into the keel stub for the new glass layers. The deepest part of the > valley was maybe 1/8" deep and tapered to nothing. The first layer was 12 > inches wide, the second layer was 9" wide. They may have added a third, > narrower layer of 1708, not sure. I mixed the epoxy for the glass guy to > keep the job going and then his helper showed up and they both faired, power > sanded, faired, long board sanded, etc. Couple coats of interprotect before > bottom paint and launch. I always wanted to fair some flaws they didn't have > time to fix, like the trailing edge of the cast lead keel should taper to > 1/8". Mine is probably 3/8" thick. And I never did check the foil > comparison of each side. It's been solid (no more annual fix) for twelve > years, and we did win many races as it is, during the few years I raced with > crew. Someday, maybe. There is some hidden speed potential there. > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md
> On April 14, 2020 at 9:59 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <[email protected]> > wrote: > > All, > > > > I am in the process of fixing the smile on our 1979 36. We are going into > season three of ownership and this has been on my list since day one. (I did > this job before on my past 1989 37XL in 2005 but had the yard do it.) I have > talked to several friends that have done it or had it done but wanted to ask > the list if anyone has any input that I can learn from. One item of concern, > is that I did spring a little leak when grinding (pictured above) I have some > simple green and antifreeze in bilge and will pump dry. > > > > Here is my plan: > > > > 1. Ground down to glass and bare lead approx. 3 to 4 inches on each > side of the keel joint. > 2. Tighten Keelbolts to required torque (per owners site 1 inch keel > bolts= 350 ft lbs) > 3. Wet out area with epoxy and band with cloth (How thick?) > 4. Sand out new glass and fair. > 5. Apply barrier coat and then bottom paint. > > > > Thanks, > > > > John McCrea > > Talisman > > Mystic, CT > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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