Just finished painting the three boot stripes on my C&C 99.  They look great 
but as expected, although the Frog masking tape was great and left a sharp 
lines there are a couple of areas where the paint bled through the making tape. 
 Anyone have any secrets for cleaning that up, other than an exacto knife and 
scraper?

 

Thanks

Rod Stright

C&C 99 

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of General Gao via 
CnC-List
Sent: May-18-20 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao <general.z....@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C&C 35 Mk2

 

thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check and 
report back.

 

Stay safe!

 

Bo

 

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from the paddlewheel 
transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more modern hall effect 
transducer will have at least three wires (I think).

 

Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer and 
the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the 
transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see what 
happens.

 

>From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:

 

TROUBLESHOOTING 

 

DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the display. 
Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the problem-

 

A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for resistance 
value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.

a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing 
magnets.

b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.

B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You should 
get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded (not hooked 
up to display).

INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC voltmeter to 
where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as usual-

 

A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on 
display, then the problem is in the display.

B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel is 
not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, and 
then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need 
replacing.   

 

 

 

On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these generator 
style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage developed 
between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would be for 
continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin the wheel 
and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when 
we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it 
was always fun to peg it :)

Joe

Coquina

On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
> Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR 
> Mariner Instruments (since 1973): 
> https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
>
> The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C&C 35 
> Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was 
> needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night 
> use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
>
> More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
>
> Ken H.
>

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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